Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Dave Spies & Derek Field (2017)
Page Views: 613 total · 45/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Apr 13, 2018
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Description

Excalibur is the wide crack in the middle of the central south face, glaringly obvious from the Village of Oak Creek. As pointed out in the comments it might split the face perfectly in half but it is not a typical splitter whatsoever. Have some fun anyway!

Jam the crack through a variety of sizes (mostly wide) and negotiate a pair of bizarre roofs. There is a bolt at the second roof. An optional 5-7" cam protects the final 5.6 move right below the chains. Good belay ledge.

To get down: Rappel 120 feet with two 60m ropes or one 70m rope.
To continue on to the summit: Scramble up and right past the large tree to the southeast edge of the formation (near the top of Royalty). From the Royalty anchor, pivot back west and scramble up the ridge, encountering a short 5.6 crack somewhere along the way.

Location

Middle of central south face.

Directions: From just below the main saddle on the approach trail, cut left on a good climber's trail and follow it clockwise around the spire and naturally up to the middle of the south face. Drop your packs, rack up, and boulder a short 4th/5th-class step up and left onto the starting ledge before setting a belay at the base of the crack.

Protection

Double rack to 3" + one #4 camalot
+ optional 5-7" cam for final 5.6 move
Two 60m ropes or one 70m rope

Photos