Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Excalibur
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.4 from 14
votes
Routes in South Face
|
|
Dark Ages T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Disenchantment T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
|
Excalibur T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Gillotine (left) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Gillotine (right) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Henchman T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Jester T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Mid-Evil Times T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Mrs. Robinson T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Royalty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
South Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| GPS: | 34.78992, -111.77346 |
| FA: | Dave Spies & Derek Field (2017) |
| Page Views: | 2,213 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Derek Field on Apr 13, 2018 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
Excalibur is the brutal wide crack splitting the middle of the central south face, glaringly obvious to any trad climber when viewed from the Village of Oak Creek.
Jam the crack through a variety of sizes (mostly wide) and negotiate a pair of bizarre roofs. There is a bolt at the second roof. An optional 5-6" cam protects the final 5.6 move right below the chains. Good belay ledge.
To get down: Rappel 120 feet with two 60m ropes or one 70m rope.
To continue on to the summit: Scramble up and right past the large tree to the southeast edge of the formation (near the top of Royalty). From the Royalty anchor, pivot back west and scramble up the ridge, encountering a short 5.6 crack somewhere along the way.
Location
Middle of central south face.
Directions: From just below the main saddle on the approach trail, cut left on a good climber's trail and follow it clockwise around the spire and naturally up to the middle of the south face. Scramble up a short 4th-class step up and left onto the starting ledge before setting a belay at the base of the crack.
3 Comments