Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dave Spies & Derek Field (2018)
Page Views: 546 total · 38/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Apr 13, 2018
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Description

Mid-Evil Times is the left crack on the central south face of South Castle Tower (Excalibur is the right one).

Scramble left along the ledge past Excalibur to the base of the crack. Climb past seated chockstones into a good handcrack interrupted by an evil crux boulder problem (one bolt) in the middle, then resume the slammer hands. Two-bolt chain anchor in the alcove.

We recommend rapping from here. If you wanna go to the summit, climb left out the roof via a short fierce boulder problem on ridiculously sugary rock. There's a good tree root for belay up there (seriously).

Location

Tall handcrack on the left side of the central south face, between Jester (right-facing corner) and Excalibur (wide crack in middle of face).

Protection

Double rack to 3"
Single 60m rope

Photos