Type: Trad, 80 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Derek Field & Giselle Fernandez (2017)
Page Views: 172 total · 18/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Apr 13, 2018
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Description

Henchman is a short steep offwidth with two cruxes in its 40 feet of hard climbing.

Pitch 1 (5.10+, 40 feet): Grunt up the flared fists 20 feet to a stance, face climb past a freaky detached flake to another stance and then leavittate through the steep fives finish.

The neat thing about this route is that, after you set your belay on the ledge, you can actually shimmy down the back of the chimney (where it's widest) and retrieve your cam(s) from the final section! Thus saving the rope from getting pinched in the cam lobes.

Pitch 2 (5.8, 40 feet): Darn, the "splitter" above the midway ledge is nothing more than a knifeblade seam. Step right and finish on the chimney as for Jester. Rappel 80 feet from the two-bolt chain anchor.

Location

Obvious offwidth crack on the pillar, 15 feet left of Jester. Traverse in from the right on a little ledge 5 feet below the start of Jester.

Protection

2x 2, 3
1x 4, 5, 6
+ a couple 1-2" cams for the ledge belay halfway
[BD c4 sizes]

Single 60m rope

Photos

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