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Routes in South Castle Tower

Excalibur T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gargoyle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Henchman T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jester T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mid-Evil Times T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mrs. Robinson T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
North Face Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Royalty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tweaker S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 80 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Derek Field & Giselle Fernandez (2017)
Page Views: 76 total · 12/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Apr 13, 2018
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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Henchman is a stout overhanging offwidth with two cruxes during its 40 feet of hard climbing.

Pitch 1 (5.10+, 40 feet): The start looks perfectly splitter but actually has a subtle flare which makes for strenuous movement. Grunt up the flare 20 feet to a stance, then face climb past a freaky detached flake to another stance and then leavittate through the overhanging fives finish. The neat thing about this route is that, after you set your belay on the ledge, you can actually shimmy down the back of the chimney (where it's widest) and retrieve your cam(s) from the final section! Thus saving the rope from getting pinched in the cam lobes.

Pitch 2 (5.8, 40 feet): Darn, the "splitter" above the midway ledge is nothing more than a knifeblade seam. Step right and finish on the chimney as for Jester. Rappel 80 feet from the two-bolt chain anchor.


Obvious offwidth splitter on the pillar, 15 feet left of Jester. Traverse in from the right on a little ledge 5 feet below the start of Jester.


2x 2, 3
1x 4, 5, 6
+ a couple 1-2" cams for the ledge belay halfway
[BD c4 sizes]

Single 60m rope



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