All Locations > Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > Village of Oak… > Castle Rock Area > Castle Rock > S Face

Henchman

Name: Henchman
Rating: 3.0

5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British

Routes in South Face

L › R R › L A › Z

	Dark Ages T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Disenchantment T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Excalibur T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Gillotine (left) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Gillotine (right) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Henchman T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Jester T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Mid-Evil Times T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Mrs. Robinson T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Royalty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	South Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

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Type:	Trad, 80 ft (24 m), 2 pitches
GPS:	34.78992, -111.77346
FA:	Derek Field & Giselle Fernandez (2017)
Page Views:	1,082 total · 11/month
Shared By:	Derek Field on Apr 13, 2018
Admins:	Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Henchman is a short steep offwidth with two cruxes in its 40 feet of hard climbing.

Pitch 1 (5.10+, 40 feet): Grunt up the flared fists 20 feet to a stance, face climb past a freaky detached flake to another stance and then leavittate through the steep fives finish.

The neat thing about this route is that, after you set your belay on the ledge, you can actually shimmy down the back of the chimney (where it's widest) and retrieve your cam(s) from the final section! Thus saving the rope from getting pinched in the cam lobes.

Pitch 2 (5.8, 40 feet): Darn, the "splitter" above the midway ledge is nothing more than a knifeblade seam. Step right and finish on the chimney as for Jester. Rappel 80 feet from the two-bolt chain anchor.

Location

Obvious offwidth crack on the “leaning pillar”, 15 feet left of Jester. Traverse in from the right on a little ledge 10 feet below the start of Jester.