All Locations > Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > Village of Oak… > Castle Towers > S Castle Tower

Royalty

Name: Royalty
Rating: 2.7

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British

Routes in South Castle Tower

L › R R › L A › Z

	Dark Ages T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Excalibur T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Gargoyle T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Gillotine (left) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Gillotine (right) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Henchman T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Jester T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Mid-Evil Times T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Mrs. Robinson T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	North Face Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Royalty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	South Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Transylvania Trip T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Tweaker S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

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Type:	Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA:	Derek Field & Dave Spies (2017)
Page Views:	1,983 total · 30/month
Shared By:	Derek Field on Apr 13, 2018
Admins:	Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Nice long moderate corner of mostly laybacking with plenty of rests. The choice warm-up for the crag, and a fine way to summit South Castle Tower.

See photo for the start (it looks improbable). Place a finger-size cam (orange metolius is perfect) wayyy above your head before bouldering into an incipient right-leaning ramp. Continue up the ramp past a fist jam about 25 feet to a major ledge break and then, after extending your alpine draws, step out into the main left-facing corner for a long stretch of laybacking and jamming.

Rappel from the two-bolt chain anchor or scramble west along the ridge (one short 5.6 crack step for which some folks might want a belay) to the summit of South Castle Tower.

Location

Big left-facing corner on the south face, about 50 feet right of Excalibur.

Directions: From just below the main saddle on the approach trail, cut left on a good climber's trail and follow it clockwise around the spire and naturally up to the middle of the south face. Drop your packs, rack up, and boulder a short 4th/5th-class step up and right onto the starting ledge before setting a belay at the base of the crack.