Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: FKA: Derek Field & Dave Spies (2017)
Page Views: 756 total · 56/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Apr 13, 2018
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Description

Nice long moderate corner of mostly laybacking with plenty of rests. A good beginner lead and a fine way to summit South Castle Tower.

See photo for the start (it looks improbable). Place a finger-size cam above your head before bouldering into an incipient right-leaning ramp. Continue up the ramp about 25 feet to a major ledge break and then step out into the main left-facing corner for a long stretch of laybacking and jamming.

Rappel from the two-bolt chain anchor or scramble west along the ridge (one short 5.6 crack step for which some folks might want a belay) to the summit of South Castle Tower.

Location

Big left-facing corner on the south face, about 50 feet right of Excalibur.

Directions: From just below the main saddle on the approach trail, cut left on a good climber's trail and follow it clockwise around the spire and naturally up to the middle of the south face. Drop your packs, rack up, and boulder a short 4th/5th-class step up and right onto the starting ledge before setting a belay at the base of the crack.

Protection

Double rack to 3"
+ one extra .75

Single 60m rope (note: 70m makes a better rap)

Photos

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