Avg: 2.7 from 15 votes
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft (30 m)|
|FA:||Derek Field & Dave Spies (2017)|
|Page Views:||1,983 total · 30/month|
|Shared By:||Derek Field on Apr 13, 2018|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen|
Nice long moderate corner of mostly laybacking with plenty of rests. The choice warm-up for the crag, and a fine way to summit South Castle Tower.
See photo for the start (it looks improbable). Place a finger-size cam (orange metolius is perfect) wayyy above your head before bouldering into an incipient right-leaning ramp. Continue up the ramp past a fist jam about 25 feet to a major ledge break and then, after extending your alpine draws, step out into the main left-facing corner for a long stretch of laybacking and jamming.
Rappel from the two-bolt chain anchor or scramble west along the ridge (one short 5.6 crack step for which some folks might want a belay) to the summit of South Castle Tower.
Directions: From just below the main saddle on the approach trail, cut left on a good climber's trail and follow it clockwise around the spire and naturally up to the middle of the south face. Drop your packs, rack up, and boulder a short 4th/5th-class step up and right onto the starting ledge before setting a belay at the base of the crack.