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Royalty
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.8 from 16
votes
Routes in South Face
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Dark Ages T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Disenchantment T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Excalibur T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gillotine (left) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gillotine (right) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Henchman T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Jester T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mid-Evil Times T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mrs. Robinson T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Royalty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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South Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 34.78992, -111.77346 |
| FA: | Derek Field & Dave Spies (2017) |
| Page Views: | 2,248 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | Derek Field on Apr 13, 2018 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
Nice long moderate corner of mostly laybacking with plenty of rests. The choice warm-up for the crag, and a fine way to summit Castle Rock.
See photo for the start (it looks improbable). Place a finger-size cam (orange mastercam or yellow totem is perfect) wayyy above your head before bouldering into an incipient right-leaning ramp. Continue up the ramp past a fist jam about 25 feet to a major ledge break and then, after extending your alpine draws, step out into the main left-facing corner for a long stretch of laybacking and jamming.
Rappel from the two-bolt chain anchor or scramble west along the ridge (one short 5.6 crack step for which some folks might want a belay) to the summit of Castle Rock.
Location
Big left-facing corner on the south face, about 50 feet right of Excalibur.
Directions: From just below the main saddle on the approach trail, cut left on a good climber's trail and follow it clockwise around the spire and naturally up to the middle of the south face. Drop your packs, rack up, and boulder a short 4th/5th-class step up and right onto the starting ledge before setting a belay at the base of the crack.
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