All Locations > Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > Village of Oak… > Castle Rock Area > Castle Rock > S Face

Gillotine (left)

Name: Gillotine (left)
Rating: 2.0

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in South Face

L › R R › L A › Z

	Dark Ages T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Disenchantment T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Excalibur T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Gillotine (left) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Gillotine (right) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Henchman T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Jester T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Mid-Evil Times T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Mrs. Robinson T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Royalty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	South Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

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Type:	Trad, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches
GPS:	34.78992, -111.77346
FA:	Derek Field & Dave Spies (March 2018)
Page Views:	877 total · 12/month
Shared By:	Derek Field on Oct 29, 2019
Admins:	Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Pitch 1 (5.8, 60'):

Ramble up a short junky chimney to a small ledge. Layback a solid varnished crack into a dirty gully and slog up to a nice belay ledge with two-bolt anchor.

Pitch 2 (5.8, 60'): Same as the original Gillotine. Climb past stacked chockstones into a cool offwidth, pulling into a gorgeous crack that goes hands to fists. Place the #4 and step left to an airy ledge with two-bolt chain anchor.

Unrope and scramble 4th/5th-class to the summit if desired.

Descent: Rappel the route. I believe the second rap goes down Gillotine (right) but not 100% sure.

Location

Left-facing wide crack system far left side of the main pillar dividing the broad south face in half. Starts in a gross-looking chimney. A few minutes' walk down and left from the Excalibur area, and just around the corner from Gillotine (right). Approach ledge gets sorta narrow at one point, but not too bad.