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Routes in Castle Rock - South Tower

Mrs. Robinson T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
North Face Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Mike and Maggie Robinson
Page Views: 342 total, 14/month
Shared By: mikeyrob on Dec 16, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Really fun route that is perfect for a casual outing in Sedona. The route climbs mostly at 5.8 and only has a 10 foot section of 5.10 on the first pitch. It is quite easy to pull through this section using 1 or 2 black diamond red c3's to keep the grade at 5.8 if desired . If not the 5.10 move is fun and well protected. The climb stops just a few feet short of the top of the tower. The FA was done all the way to the top but the rock quality at the top significantly decreased so the anchors were placed below the summit. It is possible to climb up to the top and then down climb back to the third belay without much issue if desired.

Decent
The decent requires to ropes. From the third belay rap back down to the 1 and to the ground from the first.

Location

The location is on the south east corner of castle rock. When you approach the formation form the north side walk around the east side via a ledge system with a really good trail on it. The route starts just as the ledge raps around to the south face.

Protection

standard sedona rack. A #4 camalot is useful on the third pitch.
Bill Lundeen
Lee Vining, CA
 
Bill Lundeen   Lee Vining, CA
 
Fun, sunny outing.... Pretty classic Sedona climbing; i.e., some clean rock (the crux) and a fair amount not so clean. Short tricky crux that is fun to figure out, well protected. Short approach with some steep uphill at the end and amazing views/location (hey--it's Sedona!).

One move at solid 5.10 in the first pitch crux. (Calling the route 5.8, Josh10, yet declaring a move of 10+, seems a little bizarre. This isn't JTree where the first moves don't count... If there's a 5.10 move, then the route is rated 5.10). But mostly 5.8 after that for sure. Jan 9, 2017
mikeyrob  
 
Josh10, glad you liked the route and thanks for the heads up on the last anchors, bolt . I'll head up there and fix it. Jan 29, 2016
josh10
Flagstaff, Arizona
  5.8
josh10   Flagstaff, Arizona
  5.8
Really fun climb. Climbed on jan 27 2016.

a little info,
pitch one is a lot of fun, one move at 5.10+ but is well protected with a green c3 (what we had) 5.8

pitch two is extremely short,but a fun easy stem chimney. Gear belay in the crack in the corner i used two #1 c4's and a #3 c4. 5.6/7

pitch three goes up some crack/face climbing to a off width crack/ once your done with the short off width go up the chimney to the right to the last belay bolts. 5.8


Raps: the route can be rapped in one rappel if you have two 70m ropes. it can be rapped to about 10 feet from the ground with some sketch down climbing if using two 60m ropes. or rap the route with two ropes in two raps. 3-->1 1--> ground.
be careful pulling the rope due to a lot of loose rocks on route.

you can get away with a single rack from .3-4 c4 with a double of #1 c4 for the gear belay

also for the approach: it can be done in 15 minutes if you park in the neighborhood by the "penrose bed and breakfast" there are two small dirt pull outs on red butte dr. Jan 27, 2016