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Elevation: 4,907 ft 1,496 m
GPS: 34.88787, -111.75091
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 12,032 total · 156/month
Shared By: John Knight on Feb 3, 2020
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

Description Suggest change

Mostly sunny, east facing cirque with several bolted sport/slab climbs from 5.6 to 5.10.

Getting There Suggest change

To access base of route, find the "Steamboat Tank" (see map posted in pics). You can park at Midgley Bridge (good luck getting a spot) or park in the pullout just north of the viewpoint. It holds about 3 vehicles. I see that the access is not posted on AllTrails as the Steamboat Rock Trail. From the pullout (not Midgley), follow the use trail up to the main Jim Thompson trail (not marked if you come in this way). Take a right (noting where you turned for the way back), and hike 10 minutes up the trail (north-ish) until you get to the "tank". Note that the "tank" is just a pond that sometimes has water in it (mostly never). Go around the tank to the right (or through it if it's dry) and you can work your way to the base of P1 of Motorboating. If you're headed up to the top of P1 and to Octopus's Garden, hike past the tank (through a switchback) and then look for a small use trail on your left. It goes up a small ridge and deposits you above the first pitch of Motorboating onto a cool ledge. Walk the ledge 5 minutes south (left) to get to Octopus's Garden and north (right) to get to the routes on the left side of Pirate Wall.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Octopus's Garden

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 17
Sea Monkey
Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 20
Aquaman
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 15
Aquawoman
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 16
Waterdog
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sea Monkey
 17
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Aquaman
 20
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Aquawoman
 15
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Waterdog
 16
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Octopus's Garden »

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