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Elevation: 5,423 ft 1,653 m
GPS: 31.69123, -110.4281
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 198,197 total · 1,684/month
Shared By: Luis Cisneros on Oct 15, 2014 · Updates
Admins: adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen
Warning Access Issue: Private land crossing and parking information - PLEASE READ BELOW ! DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

PLEASE READ ACCESS ISSUES ABOVE

This wonderful crag features high quality rock with a variety of features and styles. At 5,000 ft with a north aspect, the season is long if not year round.  As you climb here, remember that access is a privilege not a right, and following parking rules, respecting cattle and treading lightly are the best way to keep this amazing cliff open. There are several main areas. From left to right these are: 

  • The Prow - Mostly shaded with routes that range from 5.8 to 5.12+. Generally vertical climbing with lots of chert. The sunny side of this formation holds great potential for new routes and deep winter climbing. A steep slot known as The Gap separates the prow from the rest of the cliff band and features several rope stretching routes from 5.10 to 5.13. Shade is season dependent.  
  • The Bowling Alley - Steep, clean and featured, this prominent overhang is the main attraction on the left side of the cliff and hosts a complete grade break-down from 5.11 - 5.13d and consistent shade. Adjacent walls like The Coop mean there's enough 5.10 - 5.12 for everyone to have a good time. 
  • Whippersnapper Wall - This alcove in the middle of the cliff gets sun till late morning in the winter and is known for long, slab to vertical chert-erific adventures. Routes range from 5.9 - 5.12d
  • The Pumpkin Patch and Wall of the Superhero's - These two alcoves are right of center on the cliff and feature just under a dozen routes between the two walls, with most of those routes in the Pumpkin Patch, and landing in the 5.10 - 5.12 range. These zones have begun to see the next wave of development, and the results are rope stretching routes on generally good rock.
  • The Vineyard - The main attraction on the west end of the cliff, this crowd pleasing alcove features some of the best moderates at the farmhouse, as well as a handful of fun 5.11s and 5.12's.

 Development at the cliffs is ongoing.  Be on the lookout for fixed lines and stay off of routes that are unfinished or red-tagged.
 

Getting There Suggest change

From Tucson: 

Scenic Route: take I-10 southeast to highway 83. Follow on Hwy 83 south past Sonoita unto Hwy 82. The turnoff for The Farmhouse is 14.7 miles from the junction of 82 and 83.
Alternatively, stay on I-10 to Benson and turn south in Hwy 90 towards Sierra Vista for 19 miles. Then turn west on 82 towards Sonoita for about 4 miles. 

1- Standard Approach (Typical option): Park on a turnoff on the north side of 82 just east of a bridge four miles from Hwy 90. This is also an exit to a dirt road so DO NOT BLOCK IT. DO NOT PARK IN THE LANE WHICH IS PERPENDICULAR OR PARALLEL TO THE GATE. This lane is the only way a truck pulling a trailer can pass through the gate. Cross the road directly and drop down into a clearing where you'll find an A-frame ladder to cross the fence into private land. [This is private property but the land owner is allowing access at this time. He also owns the land north of the parking as well. PLEASE BE RESPECTFUL so we keep this privilege] Follow the fence line west to find the trail that parallels the drainage and leads to a large open wash. Look for carins on the south side of the wash and follow a well worn trail up the slope. At the fork, head west for the Vineyard, Pumpkin Patch and Wippersnapper wall. Head east at the fork for the Bowling Alley, Coop, Gap and Welcome Wall. Distance from car to the crag is about a mile, it takes about 30-45 minutes or so.

2- East Approach (Overflow option): Turn onto a dirt driveway with a gate on the south side of 82 next to a No Passing Zone (about three miles from Hwy 90). This is a construction site within private land. DO NOT BLOCK OR DRIVE IN THE GATE. You can park outside on a the dirt road to the left of the gate. Cross the gate and follow the dirt road west to its terminus in a gravel pit. From here head south to the large open wash and look for carins that signify the start of the uphill section of trail. Takes about 40-60 minutes. The good alternative if parking at the main area is full.

Camping

Suggest change

Camping is not allowed in the parking area or adjacent to the Farmhouse, however there is tons of public land located near-by where free camping can be found. Las Cienegas Conservation Area, or the roads to The Dry, Mustang or Biscuit are all good options within a few miles. If you do choose to camp, please adhere to LNT principles, obey fire restrictions and respect private property 

110 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Farmhouse

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 57
Cellar Rat
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 82
Always Welcome, Never Invited
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 10
The Multiverse
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 102
Prize Rooster
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 6
Canyon of the Crescent Moon (Ful…
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 4
Temple of Doom
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 41
Orujo
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 58
Queen of the Coop
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 38
Underwhere
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 29
Rinse and Repeat
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 4
Time
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 10
Kingpin
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 10
Lies and Candy
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 7
Superunknown
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 6
House of Sky
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cellar Rat 8 - Vineyard
 57
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Always Welcome, Never Invited 2 - The Prow > Welcome Wall
 82
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Multiverse 6 - The Wall of Super…
 10
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Prize Rooster 3 - The Bowling… > Coop
 102
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Canyon of the Crescent Moon… 5 - Whippersnapper Wall
 6
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Temple of Doom 5 - Whippersnapper Wall
 4
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Orujo 8 - Vineyard
 41
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Queen of the Coop 3 - The Bowling… > Coop
 58
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Underwhere 3 - The Bowling… > Bowling Alley Main Wall
 38
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Rinse and Repeat 3 - The Bowling… > Bowling Alley Main Wall
 29
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Time 2 - The Prow > Hourglass
 4
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Kingpin 3 - The Bowling… > Bowling Alley Main Wall
 10
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Lies and Candy 3 - The Bowling… > Bowling Alley Main Wall
 10
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
Superunknown 3 - The Bowling… > Bowling Alley Main Wall
 7
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
House of Sky 3 - The Bowling… > Bowling Alley Main Wall
 6
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
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