Elevation: 5,425 ft
GPS: 31.691, -110.428 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 139,757 total · 1,721/month
Shared By: Luis Cisneros on Oct 15, 2014 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd
Access Issue: Access trail crosses a private ranch. READ PARKING REQUIREMENTS BELOW ! Details

Description

PLEASE READ ACCESS ISSUES ABOVE

This wonderful crag features high quality rock with many different types routes - long, short, steep, slab......... there is something to keep everyone happy. There are several main areas. The Sunny side is about 300 feet high and a couple hundred yards wide of vertical or slightly overhang high quality rock (South-east facing). The shaded Prow and the Bowling Alley areas face north with some serious steep and difficult climbing. The Pumpkin Patch and Vineyard have been densely developed over the last few years by a dedicated group of Sierra Vista locals and have grades ranging from 5.6-5.12+

 Development at the cliffs is ongoing.  Be on the lookout for fixed lines and please stay off of routes that are unfinished or red-tagged.

Getting There

From Tucson: take I-10 southeast to highway 83. Follow on Hwy 83 south past Sonoita unto Hwy 82. The turnoff for The Farmhouse is 14.7 miles from the junction of 82 and 83. Alternatively, stay in I-10 to Benson and turn south in Hwy 90 towards Sierra Vista for 19 miles. Then turn west on 82 towards Sonoita for about 4 miles. There are two different approaches to the crag:

1- North Approach (Preferred): Park on a turnoff on the north side of 82 just east of a bridge four miles from Hwy 90. This is also an exit to a dirt road so DO NOT BLOCK IT. DO NOT PARK IN THE LANE WHICH IS PERPENDICULAR TO THE GATE. This lane is the only way a truck pulling a trailer can pass through the gate. From here cross and walk along the road into the wash under the bridge. This is private property but the land owner is OK with using the wash. PLEASE BE RESPECTFUL so we keep this privilege. Follow the wash for about 1/8 mile into a large open area and find a cairn on the south side. Follow faint trail and cairns across a boulder field and steep terrain all the way to the base of the crag. This trail is much shorter but very steep at the end (some serious trail works needs to be done), but is also in the north hill so it will be on the shade in the mornings. Distance from car to the crag is about a mile, it takes about 45 minutes, but times are getting much better as the trails improve.

2- East Approach (worse option): Turn onto a dirt driveway with a gate on the south side of 82 next to a “No Passing Zone” (about three miles from Hwy 90). This is a construction site within private land. DO NOT BLOCK OR DRIVE IN THE GATE. You can park outside on a the dirt road to the left of the gate. Cross the gate and follow the dirt road for a few hundred feet, then cross the grass field to a faint trail following a wash. Cross the wash onto a grassy flat area up to hillside on the east side of the rock formation. Climb the hill up to the cliff band. This is a spring and fall crag, but can be climbed at during the winter. Most of the routes are in the shade and never see the sun. Plan on an hour approach, the last forty minutes of which are up a steep hill.

101 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Farmhouse

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 39
Cellar Rat
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 29
You're Welcome
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 38
All Cooped Up
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 52
Always Welcome, Never Invited
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 34
Barrel Monkey
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 60
Prize Rooster
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 35
Strikes and Gutters
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 26
Orujo
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 26
Look at all those Chickens
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 32
Queen of the Coop
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 15
The Bees Knees
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 28
Underwhere
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 20
Rinse and Repeat
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 11
Stealing Thunder
Sport
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
 5
Kingpin
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cellar Rat 8 - Vineyard
 39
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
You're Welcome 2 - The Prow > Welcome Wall
 29
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
All Cooped Up 3 - The Bowling… > Coop
 38
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Always Welcome, Never Invited 2 - The Prow > Welcome Wall
 52
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Barrel Monkey 8 - Vineyard
 34
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Prize Rooster 3 - The Bowling… > Coop
 60
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Strikes and Gutters 3 - The Bowling… > Bowling Alley Main Wall
 35
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Orujo 8 - Vineyard
 26
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Look at all those Chickens 3 - The Bowling… > Coop
 26
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Queen of the Coop 3 - The Bowling… > Coop
 32
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Bees Knees 3 - The Bowling… > Bowling Alley Main Wall
 15
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Underwhere 3 - The Bowling… > Bowling Alley Main Wall
 28
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Rinse and Repeat 3 - The Bowling… > Bowling Alley Main Wall
 20
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Stealing Thunder 3 - The Bowling… > Bowling Alley Main Wall
 11
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Kingpin 3 - The Bowling… > Bowling Alley Main Wall
 5
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c Sport
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