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The Farmhouse Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 5,423 ft | 1,653 m |
| GPS: |
31.69123, -110.4281 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 198,328 total · 1,606/month | |
| Shared By: | Luis Cisneros on Oct 15, 2014 · Updates | |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Access Issue: Private land crossing and parking information - PLEASE READ BELOW !
Details
Please be respectful and keep this access open to climbers. Use posted photos for this area to familiarize yourself with where parking is and is not allowed. Access to all gates must remain available to a truck and trailer. Parking in any way that restricts access to the gates north of the highway will jeopardize access for climbing.
Description
PLEASE READ ACCESS ISSUES ABOVE
This wonderful crag features high quality rock with a variety of features and styles. At 5,000 ft with a north aspect, the season is long if not year round. As you climb here, remember that access is a privilege not a right, and following parking rules, respecting cattle and treading lightly are the best way to keep this amazing cliff open. There are several main areas. From left to right these are:
- The Prow - Mostly shaded with routes that range from 5.8 to 5.12+. Generally vertical climbing with lots of chert. The sunny side of this formation holds great potential for new routes and deep winter climbing. A steep slot known as The Gap separates the prow from the rest of the cliff band and features several rope stretching routes from 5.10 to 5.13. Shade is season dependent.
- The Bowling Alley - Steep, clean and featured, this prominent overhang is the main attraction on the left side of the cliff and hosts a complete grade break-down from 5.11 - 5.13d and consistent shade. Adjacent walls like The Coop mean there's enough 5.10 - 5.12 for everyone to have a good time.
- Whippersnapper Wall - This alcove in the middle of the cliff gets sun till late morning in the winter and is known for long, slab to vertical chert-erific adventures. Routes range from 5.9 - 5.12d
- The Pumpkin Patch and Wall of the Superhero's - These two alcoves are right of center on the cliff and feature just under a dozen routes between the two walls, with most of those routes in the Pumpkin Patch, and landing in the 5.10 - 5.12 range. These zones have begun to see the next wave of development, and the results are rope stretching routes on generally good rock.
- The Vineyard - The main attraction on the west end of the cliff, this crowd pleasing alcove features some of the best moderates at the farmhouse, as well as a handful of fun 5.11s and 5.12's.
Development at the cliffs is ongoing. Be on the lookout for fixed lines and stay off of routes that are unfinished or red-tagged.
Getting There
From Tucson:
Scenic Route: take I-10 southeast to highway 83. Follow on Hwy 83 south past Sonoita unto Hwy 82. The turnoff for The Farmhouse is 14.7 miles from the junction of 82 and 83.
Alternatively, stay on I-10 to Benson and turn south in Hwy 90 towards Sierra Vista for 19 miles. Then turn west on 82 towards Sonoita for about 4 miles.
1- Standard Approach (Typical option): Park on a turnoff on the north side of 82 just east of a bridge four miles from Hwy 90. This is also an exit to a dirt road so DO NOT BLOCK IT. DO NOT PARK IN THE LANE WHICH IS PERPENDICULAR OR PARALLEL TO THE GATE. This lane is the only way a truck pulling a trailer can pass through the gate. Cross the road directly and drop down into a clearing where you'll find an A-frame ladder to cross the fence into private land. [This is private property but the land owner is allowing access at this time. He also owns the land north of the parking as well. PLEASE BE RESPECTFUL so we keep this privilege] Follow the fence line west to find the trail that parallels the drainage and leads to a large open wash. Look for carins on the south side of the wash and follow a well worn trail up the slope. At the fork, head west for the Vineyard, Pumpkin Patch and Wippersnapper wall. Head east at the fork for the Bowling Alley, Coop, Gap and Welcome Wall. Distance from car to the crag is about a mile, it takes about 30-45 minutes or so.
2- East Approach (Overflow option): Turn onto a dirt driveway with a gate on the south side of 82 next to a No Passing Zone (about three miles from Hwy 90). This is a construction site within private land. DO NOT BLOCK OR DRIVE IN THE GATE. You can park outside on a the dirt road to the left of the gate. Cross the gate and follow the dirt road west to its terminus in a gravel pit. From here head south to the large open wash and look for carins that signify the start of the uphill section of trail. Takes about 40-60 minutes. The good alternative if parking at the main area is full.
Camping
Camping is not allowed in the parking area or adjacent to the Farmhouse, however there is tons of public land located near-by where free camping can be found. Las Cienegas Conservation Area, or the roads to The Dry, Mustang or Biscuit are all good options within a few miles. If you do choose to camp, please adhere to LNT principles, obey fire restrictions and respect private property
Classic Climbing Routes at The Farmhouse
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Photos
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