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Areas in The Farmhouse

1 - Mine the Gap 2 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
2 - Sunny Side 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
3 - The Prow 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
4 - The Baby Gap 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
5 - The Coop 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
6 - Bowling Alley 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
7 - The Gutter 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
8 - The Slot Machine 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
9 - Pumpkin Patch 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Vineyard 1 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
Access Issue: Access trail crosses a private ranch Details

Description

A rarely climbed crag features high quality rock and long routes.
There are three main areas. The Sunny side is about 300 feet high and a couple hundred yards wide of vertical or slightly overhang high quality rock (South-east facing). The shaded Prow (with no routes on it yet) and the Bowling Alley areas face north with some serious steep climbing. There is great potential for development in this area.

Getting There

From Tucson: take I-10 southeast to highway 83. Follow on Hwy 83 south past Sonoita unto Hwy 82. The turnoff for The Farmhouse is 14.7 miles from the junction of 82 and 83. Alternatively, stay in I-10 to Benson and turn south in Hwy 90 towards Sierra Vista for 19 miles. Then turn west on 82 towards Sonoita for about 4 miles. There are two different approaches to the crag:

1- East Approach: Turn onto a dirt driveway with a gate on the south side of 82 next to a “No Passing Zone” (about three miles from Hwy 90). This is a construction site within private land. DO NOT BLOCK OR DRIVE IN THE GATE. You can park outside on a the dirt road to the left of the gate. Cross the gate and follow the dirt road for a few hundred feet, then cross the grass field to a faint trail following a wash. Cross the wash onto a grassy flat area up to hillside on the east side of the rock formation. Climb the hill up to the cliff band. This is a spring and fall crag, but can be climbed at during the winter. Most of the routes are in the shade and never see the sun. Plan on an hour approach, the last forty minutes of which are up a steep hill.

2- North Approach: Park on a turnoff on the north side of 82 just east of a bridge four miles from Hwy 90. This is also an exit to a dirt road so DO NOT BLOCK IT. From here cross and walk along the road into the wash under the bridge. This is private property but the land owner is OK with using the wash. PLEASE BE RESPECTFUL so we keep this privilege. Follow the wash for about 1/8 mile into a large open area and find a cairn on the south side. Follow faint trail and cairns across a boulder field and steep terrain all the way to the base of the crag. This trail is much shorter but very steep at the end (some serious trail works needs to be done), but is also in the north hill so it will be on the shade in the mornings. Distance from car to the crag is about 3/4 of a mile, it takes about 30-45 minutes, but times are getting much better as the trail improves.

47 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Farmhouse

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 6
Vino Tinto
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 7
Cellar Rat
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Liquid Serenity
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Novinophobia
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
All Cooped Up
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Barrel Monkey
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Tintorro
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 4
Sangría Olé
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
Pop My Cork
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
Prize Rooster
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 6
Flippin' The Bird
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
Bottle Me Whines
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 4
Grapes of Wrath
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 7
Orujo
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 3
Underwhere
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Vino Tinto Vineyard
 6
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Cellar Rat Vineyard
 7
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Liquid Serenity Vineyard
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Novinophobia Vineyard
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
All Cooped Up 5 - The Coop
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Barrel Monkey Vineyard
 7
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Tintorro Vineyard
 8
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Sangría Olé Vineyard
 4
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Pop My Cork Vineyard
 6
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Prize Rooster 5 - The Coop
 7
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Flippin' The Bird 5 - The Coop
 6
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Bottle Me Whines Vineyard
 3
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Grapes of Wrath Vineyard
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Orujo Vineyard
 7
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Underwhere 6 - Bowling Alley
 3
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Farmhouse »

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
jbak .
tucson,az
jbak .   tucson,az
Luis...Tyler's map is pretty mis-leading. The "east" face of the Farmhouse is actually a SOUTHeast face. Big difference in terms of sun/shade and climbing temps.

And I'm smiling when I read "high quality rock". Maybe in places, but some of it is about as treacherous and nasty as rock can be. I levered off a couple of refrigator sized blocks and a lot of choss when putting up my aborted 3-pitch route on the SE face. Oct 16, 2014
Luis Cisneros
Tucson
Luis Cisneros   Tucson
Haha... good to know jbak. The rock does look great and solid in that area, but we need to start getting on it to tell for sure. Vince and I do have a knack for finding very choosy lines. Is your 3-pitch route the one that goes up a small roof? Oct 16, 2014
jbak .
tucson,az
jbak .   tucson,az
The left side of the SE face is a formation I call "The Pillar". My route is just to the right of that. It's the left-most route on the whole formation I'm pretty sure. There is a cache of SS bolts at the bottom. If you find them, go ahead and use them. The route is not completely finished, maybe I'll come along and finish it after it cools down a bit more.

The route that Tyler mentions (route 1 -- 3 pitch open project) is NOT the one I started. Route 1 is just left of the short 5.11a (route 2) and looks pretty decent. When I asked how hard it was I think Todd said 12c. Although in that case it wouldn't be a project for long because those guys woulda crushed it. Several of the routes marked project have probably been done. Todd would know. Oct 16, 2014
Luis Cisneros
Tucson
Luis Cisneros   Tucson
Cool, got it... I think I know exactly which one is your route. I will like to get all this sorted out in the following weeks and keep updating this page as we get more info. I'll try to contact Todd. I think this crag deserves some more attention. Let's see how many sportos are not too lazy to do a bit of hiking.

BTW, do you know if any of the cracks have been climbed? I saw a few lines that can go as mixed moderates or intermediates.

It will be great if you come. I'll rig a big tarp for shading and refreshments Oct 17, 2014
jbak .
tucson,az
jbak .   tucson,az
I saw Todd last week and told him he should come on here and add info about the existing routes and clear things up. He told me all of the projects on Tyler's topo have been sent except for maybe one. I'll ping him again about posting. He wants to head down there later in the month. Nov 3, 2014
Luis Cisneros
Tucson
Luis Cisneros   Tucson
awesome! Nov 3, 2014
Hey all, I plan to head to the farmhouse soon. I'll take some pictures and post them with descriptions of the routes. The one problem with the farmhouse has been the bees. Please be careful as there are several nests.
Nov 17, 2014
jbak .
tucson,az
jbak .   tucson,az
3 hives on the north side today... kinda spooky. Nov 29, 2014
Luis Cisneros
Tucson
Luis Cisneros   Tucson
Are they up high? I could never see bees close to the base anywhere. But I've been called "distracted" before. Dec 2, 2014
Luis Cisneros
Tucson
Luis Cisneros   Tucson
By the way Todd and John... I sort of randomly assigned names to the sub-areas, because I didn't know much about this place and I wanted to make this site to get feedback from the community. If you guys have different names that you use or prefer, please let me know and I'll edit the MP entries appropriately. Dec 2, 2014
jbak .
tucson,az
jbak .   tucson,az
Luis... one hive is high up in that clean steep area on the left side of the north face. Also... 2 hives way right over by The Rookie.

The bees seem to like to find a single round hole in the otherwise cleanest, steepest rock. Probably makes them feel safe that nothing can approach easily. Smart little suckers. Dec 2, 2014
Remy Franklin
Tucson, AZ
Remy Franklin   Tucson, AZ
Hey y’all! I’m hoping to check out The Farmhouse on Wednesday - could anyone give me additional route beta? I hear there’s been some development more recently. Routes lists or topos much appreciated, and I’d love to come help with the bolting/cleaning in the next few months if there’s interest for more work there. Thanks! Jan 28, 2018

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