Type: Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Scott Baxter and Gordon Douglass, '77 or '78
Page Views: 1,680 total · 11/month
Shared By: markguycan on Apr 16, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

climb from noptch between Tisha Spire up low angle varied cracks (5.4) to ledge w/ big tree. Then splitter corner up to roof, traverse L (crux) to anchors, continue up unprotected easy slabs to summit.

Location

Southeast of Acropolis, easiest approach from Midgely Bridgely to Jim Thompson trail to north end of Steamboat slickrock slabs then across Steamboat to saddle to Princess.

Protection

Gear to #4camalot

Photos

Scott Baxter and I did the first ascent of this route back in 1977 or 1978.

Hope this helps - Gordon Douglass Jun 8, 2006
Jacob Dolence
Morgantown, WV
Jacob Dolence   Morgantown, WV
Just did this route today and thought it was great! One note however is that on the easy slabs above the anchor there is a 500+lbs block resting on a teeter totter. We debated trundling it, but since my dog was hanging out at the bottom decided that would be a bad idea. Plus didn't know how far down the hill it would roll. Instead we reinforced it with a bunch of rocks to hopefully stabilize it for future parties. I would advise future parties to climb around it to the right... Super fun approach and climb though! Jan 5, 2013
Derek Field
California
  5.10+
Derek Field   California
  5.10+
This line is classic! Gorgeous rock too. Climbing it at sunset is an incredible experience, the way the corner lines up on the sun-shade line.
Relatively sustained jamming at the .10 grade, with a good dose of excitement on the roof traverse. Oct 18, 2016
Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Not that long but sooo good, an unheralded classic! All you really need are 2 each #2 and #3. Mar 5, 2017
slim    
anybody have info on the current decent? do you still rap off the cactus? Dec 5, 2017
markguycan
flagstaff, AZ
  5.10+
markguycan   flagstaff, AZ
  5.10+
Slim- if you go all the way to the summit, the cactus is your anchor, if you downclimb from there (easy) to the ledge left of the roof there is a good anchor shared by the regular route and FX. Dec 6, 2017
slim    
cool, thanks man! Dec 8, 2017
slim    
really nice primarily big hands corner. i was pretty surprised that the traverse crack quickly gets wide. for some reason i assumed it would be fingers, and was a wee bit unprepared. Jan 3, 2018