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Routes in Princess Spire

Fingering Xena T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Princess Spire Regular Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Scott Baxter and Gordon Douglass, '77 or '78
Page Views: 1,398 total, 10/month
Shared By: markguycan on Apr 16, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

climb from noptch between Tisha Spire up low angle varied cracks (5.4) to ledge w/ big tree. Then splitter corner up to roof, traverse L (crux) to anchors, continue up unprotected easy slabs to summit.

Location

Southeast of Acropolis, easiest approach from Midgely Bridgely to Jordan trail to north end of Steamboat slickrock slabs.

Protection

Gear to #4camalot

Photos

Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Not that long but sooo good, an unheralded classic! All you really need are 2 each #2 and #3. Mar 5, 2017
Derek Field
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10+
Derek Field   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10+
This line is classic! Gorgeous rock too. Climbing it at sunset is an incredible experience, the way the corner lines up on the sun-shade line.

Found relatively sustained climbing at the 10+ grade, with a good dose of excitement on the roof traverse. Oct 18, 2016
JacobD
Flagstaff, AZ
JacobD   Flagstaff, AZ
Just did this route today and thought it was great! One note however is that on the easy slabs above the anchor there is a 500+lbs block resting on a teeter totter. We debated trundling it, but since my dog was hanging out at the bottom decided that would be a bad idea. Plus didn't know how far down the hill it would roll. Instead we reinforced it with a bunch of rocks to hopefully stabilize it for future parties. I would advise future parties to climb around it to the right... Super fun approach and climb though! Jan 5, 2013
Scott Baxter and I did the first ascent of this route back in 1977 or 1978.

Hope this helps - Gordon Douglass Jun 8, 2006