Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches
FA: Derek Field & Andy McQuillen (Oct 31st, 2020)
Page Views: 774 total · 53/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Nov 16, 2020
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick

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Access Issue: Please take care on the approach not to stray into the resort. Details

Description

We Ride At Dawn (5.11-,  300 feet, 4 pitches)

WRAD takes a natural and attractive line up the gut of an otherwise forbidding north-facing Coconino wall in the thick of the back canyons of West Sedona. Due preparations should be taken the night before embarking on this adventure. The climbing is fun and diverse, with hangover-friendly belay ledges along the way. Best part is the final pitch tops out almost directly on the summit of Sky Island, from which a jaw-dropping panorama of Red Rock Secret Mountain Wilderness awaits.

All FA work was done ground-up and the route was freed in redpoint style.

Pitch 1 (5.11-, 110 feet): Ascend the grey left-facing corner on a mix of gear and bolts, with a baffling crux at the fifth bolt. Two-bolt chain anchor on good ledge. 

  • Tip: Extend all alpine draws except for the crux bolts (#4-6) or else fight drag so heinous that you might not make it.  
  • Gear for P1: 10 bolts + single set cams to 4" + small/medium nuts

Pitch 2 (5.9+, 50 feet): Take a scenic walk to the right, clip the bolt and bust out the quirky boulder problem. Place a 3" cam then paddle past another bolt to gain the deluxe lunch ledge with two-bolt chain anchor.

  • Tip: Clip the first bolt with a single locking carabiner to mitigate ledge-fall potential.
  • Gear for P2: 2 bolts + one 3" cam

Pitch 3 (5.10, 90 feet): Jam the awesome splitter through a tight-hands bulge. Continue up the featured 4" crack, then traverse right on loose rock. Wiggle up the 6" offwidth past a bolt, then cut back left on loose rock again. At last, you can leave your 6" cam behind and charge up to the belay ledge on wobbly patina jugs. Two-bolt chain anchor.

  • Tip: You'll use your 6" cam a few times on this pitch. Keep back-cleaning it in order to save it for the final stretch.
  • Gear for P3: 1 bolt + double set cams to 3" + one each 4-6" cams + small/medium nuts

Pitch 4 (5.8, 50 feet): The difficulty backs off, but the position just keeps getting better. Run up the final crack, which opens from fingers to fists. Walk 20 feet right along the top ledge to the two-bolt chain anchor. The summit register is but a stone's throw away.

  • Gear for P4: Single set cams to 3" + optional small/medium nuts

Descent: Rappel the route with one 60m rope.

Location

WRAD is the crack system in the center of the wall. With a keen eye, one can see the upper half's splitter (Pitches 3 and 4) from the canyon floor.

Protection

Double set cams to 3" + one each 4-6" cams + small/medium nuts + at least 14 alpine (60cm / shoulder-length) draws + one 60m rope

Photos