Avg: 2.5 from 68 votes
|Type:||Sport, 600 ft (182 m), 7 pitches|
|FA:||John Knight, Kelly Farris, Dan Erat|
|Page Views:||9,222 total · 222/month|
|Shared By:||John Knight on Jan 31, 2019|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman|
Pitch 1 - The Agave Pitch. 5.9- or 5.7A0. 5 bolts. About 60' to 80' long. Start on the right side of the drainage (look for bolt 1), then work your way left across the Agave covered shelf. Be careful not to get spiked! Better yet, take one home with you and make some tequila out of it. This pitch has a 5.9-ish crux that can be overcome by clipping a bolt and pulling through it. Think of it as good mixed free/aid practice. The top out move requires a high reach and high step up and left to smear with your left foot. It's well protected so just try the move and you'll be fine if you fall.
Pitch 1 - Beached Whale (Shamu) Direct Variation. 5.10b. 4 bolts. Follow the obvious direct line left of the Agave Pitch. First bolt is a bit high but it’s fairly easy terrain to get to it. Work your way up steeping rock to a nice crack/pocket and then a big ledge. Do a mantle move or just do the “beached whale” and flop onto the ledge. Cruise up easy terrain to the anchors.
Pitch 2 - The Dirt Pitch. 5.3d. 2 bolts. The "d" is for dirty. Not really that bad but the dirt will keep you paying attention. About 60' to 70'. A nice break after nearly getting spiked by the Agave on P1.
Note - you can skip P1 & P2 and hike straight to base of P3. Simply head right of the drainage and head up to a big ledge.
Pitch 3 - The Money Pitch. 5.6 (maybe 5.7?). 6 bolts. About 70'. This pitch is my favorite. Start on the right and work your way up and left. Enjoy!
Pitch 4 - Walk the Ledge (Direct Variation of P4) 5.9- From the top of P3, go straight up the to the base of P4 and look up for the first bolt. If needed, you can use this first bolt to belay your follower up to the base of P4. Don't worry, these bolts are 1/2" by 6" so should be fine for a 1 bolt belay. This pitch goes straight up via blocky steps to a big ledge (Ledge 1). Traverse left, step up to a 2nd smaller ledge, then look up for the bolt that will protect you as you go over the roof to the anchors. Go straight up and over when you see the roof bolt. Bring a long slings to improve the rope drag through the lower ledge traverse. I thought the crux was at the 2nd clip. The "beached whale" mantel ending up being more like 5.8.
Pitch 4 - The Bypass Pitch Variation. 5.8+ . 6 bolts. About 70'. There is some really loose stuff a few feet to the right and left of the bolt line. Avoid the urge to veer off route into the "rough" (but easy looking) rock and you should be fine. Stay under the bolt line and pull through the 5.8-ish move at the top if it gets too hairy for you. To get to the base of P4, walk the big ledge to the right and move 50' or 60' to the right of the P3 anchors. The start of this pitch is not visible from the top of P3. It is just around the corner. Follow the bolts then head above and left to the P4 TR/Rap anchor to the one I call 4a. This mid-point anchor is the one you'll use if you rap the route. Note - I originally didn't think the Direct Variation would be easier than 5.10+. Once I cleaned it (the Direct line) I was surprised that it turned out to be about the same grade and a more interesting pitch than the variation.
Pitch 5 - Getting Close Pitch. 5.5/5.6. 4 bolts. Just follow the bolts. If you do the Direct Variation on P4, once you get to the P4 Anchor (not 4a), just continue past the 4a anchor and head up to top of P5. This pitch tops out on a big ledge. You have the option of continuing all the way up or bailing out right and hiking (or rapping) down the route.
Pitch 6 - Getting Real Close Pitch! Maybe 5.5/5.6. 4 bolts. To get to the first bolt, you'll have to pick up your rope, head south (climbers left) and then work you way up the 3rd Class slabs to find bolt 1.
Pitch 7 - The "Summit" Pitch 5.7/5.8. 6 bolts. Not really the summit of the Submarine, but gets you up to the base of the "fin" feature at the top (often called the "Conning Tower"). Move about 50 or (more?) yards left of the corner and look up for the first bolt. About 20’ above easy ground. There are 2 seams you can follow. The left seam is a bit easier and a bit more sustained so that's the one that's bolted. The right seam has some fun stemming to a tricky 5.8 move if you want to TR later. The left seam has some fun stemming, high stepping, and face climbing.
Top Out - if you want to finish at the top of the Submarine, you'll need a 5.10 trad leader. There are actually three 5.10ish routes on the fin. Unfortunately, if you want to do any of these top out pitches you'll need to drag a full trad rack up the entire route.
Combining/Speeding Up Pitches: A couple thoughts on speeding up the route. If you follow some of these suggestions you might be able to cut the time to about 2 hours. P1/P2 - Combine. P3 - pass the rap anchor and go to the base of P4 and anchor off the lowest bolt (you can step up and grab the 2nd bolt if you want a 2 bolt belay). P4 - Pass the first rap anchor at the top of the pitch and cruise up to the mid-point rap anchor. P6 - It's mostly 5.4/5.5. If you're comfortable, simul-climb this pitch. P7 - nothing special here. Just a regular belay. The hard part for me was remembering how far to the left the start was. You have to walk quite a ways to the left. Keep walking left while you look for climber trails and keep your eyes out for the first bolt.
Descent - To get down, rap the entire route or walk off the north side of the formation. If you are at the top of P7, you might want to rap that pitch then walk down. When rapping P6 note that you will need to walk down some 3rd Class slabs. Pick your way carefully and try not to knock off any loose rocks. Note that the anchor at the top of Pitch 4 can't be seen until you are right on top of it. You'll need to do a short rap (maybe 35') from the mid-point anchor (noted as 4a) to get to the anchor at the top of P4. Rap straight down the water streak from 4a then move right to the edge and look for the anchors. They are not visible until you are right on top of them. DO NOT try to rap all the way from the 4a anchor to the base of P4, you won't make it on a 60M rope!
Top Rope Options - A couple pitches have variations that could be top roped. See orange lines on topo. For example, Pitch 1 has a great direct line that is 5.10 + TR. Also check out Sea Monkey (5.6) which can be accessed by heading south (climbers left) from top of Pitch 2 until you get into the "cirque".
Please post your comments so I can confirm the grades and make this better for future climbers.