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Areas in Lower Devil's Canyon

Glitter Box Area 12 / 21 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 27
Hackberry Creek 13 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 23
Hidden Towers 5 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Lion's Den 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Lower Devil's East (LDE) 33 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 35
Refuge, The 94 / 36 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 119
Road Area 3 / 8 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Totem-Proto Area 13 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20
Elevation: 4,229 ft
GPS: 33.272, -111.042 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 73,029 total, 534/month
Shared By: Mike on Sep 17, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

Description

Despite having arguably the best climbing in Queen Creek, Lower Devil's Canyon gets relatively little traffic due to it's difficult aproach.
Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Getting There

Take the Oak Flat Road past the campground. About 1/4 mile before the mine, turn left on the rough dirt road (close the gate behind you!) and follow it for a few miles on an ever-worsening road until just past a meadow. Turn left at the bottom of the wash (at the old windmill) and drive for another mile or so to the end of the road and park.

243 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lower Devil's Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easy Street
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smokin' The Toad
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Aint Nothing but a Thing
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
El Throatchoker Grande
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dacite Conspiracy
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Accelerated Climbology
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Adios Larry
Sport 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
The Shmotem Pole
Trad 3 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Centipede Corner
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Damsels in Distress
Trad, Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pathological Optimist
Trad, Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Octabulgey
Trad
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
The Totem Pole
Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Eyes of the World
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gabriel's Watch
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Easy Street Hackberry Creek 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Smokin' The Toad Hackberry Creek 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Aint Nothing but a Thing Hackberry Creek 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
El Throatchoker Grande Lower Devil's E… > Lunchbox 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Dacite Conspiracy Hackberry Creek 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Accelerated Climbology Lower Devil's E… > Climbology Area 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Adios Larry Glitter Box Area 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Sport 2 pitches
The Shmotem Pole Lower Devil's E… > Shmotem Pole 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Centipede Corner Lower Devil's E… > Lunchbox 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Damsels in Distress Glitter Box Area 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad, Sport
Pathological Optimist Totem-Proto Area 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Octabulgey Refuge > Torch > Bulges 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
The Totem Pole Totem-Proto Area 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport 2 pitches
Eyes of the World Glitter Box Area 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Sport
Gabriel's Watch Refuge > Godhead South > Face of God 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Lower Devil's Canyon »

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
They're great (as is his book), but there's been much development. For example, all of the climbs in LDE (Lower Devils East) and The Refuge are described in PDFs that are posted under the respective area here on Mountain Project. Also, there are many additional climbs that are only described here. Jan 27, 2017
Great video. Can't wait to get out there. Are the Karabin Guides still the "go to" for beta in that area?
Cheers, Jan 9, 2017
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
The biners attached to quick links at the anchors ARE NOT BOOTY! PLEASE DO NOT TAKE. Over the last few weeks, I've been stunned to find many of our hard placed biners gone throughout Lower Devils and also in The Refuges. Please leave the biners in place! Gradually we are replacing with chains as it's frustrating to be constantly losing these key parts of the anchors.

Note the pictures of anchors posted for LDE and for The Refuge. Jan 8, 2017
BAd
BAd  
Cool video. How hard is that tower? Looks fantastic! Got to get in there. Dec 4, 2016
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
That video is fantastic! Nicely put together -- Though I must say that I'm glad I wasn't around with a drone flying around like that. Pretty wild to see what you can do with it, though. Would be a fun game to try to lasso the drone with a climbing rope while standing on top of the pole! Mar 27, 2016
Marcy
Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Marcy   Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Did you leave behind some ropes in LD recently. PM me for information :) Mar 22, 2016
youtu.be/xd31deaz9xs


Just cut this video from a couple weeks ago. Lemme know what you all think.

Thanks,
Fletch Mar 9, 2016
Marcy
Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Marcy   Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Found Nalgene koozie in Hackberry Creek. PM me and let me know, I'll be happy to get it back to its owner. Feb 22, 2016
Dan Evans
Phoenix, AZ
Dan Evans   Phoenix, AZ
Thanks for the responses. I was able to pick up a paper Marty guide for LDC at the AZ Hiking Shack there in Phoenix. Made all the difference finding landmarks to go off for some of the newer routes listed only on MP.

On a different note, can anyone tell me what route this is? Based off the paper guide it looks to be "#47: Psychoactive (5.10-)." It's around the corner from the waterfall before getting to "Easy Street." Anyway, me and my buddy climbed this a few days ago and there are some extremely large loose blocks 3/4 the way up P1 and some smaller loose stuff down low. There is one block in particular 3/4 the way up the size of a small refrigerator that rocked when I pulled on it. We would have cleaned it but we had a dog at the base we didn't want to risk hitting with debris.

If this is in fact the climb Psychoactive, I will post a warning on the page but wanted to confirm with someone before spreading bunk word.

Dec 30, 2015
Mike
Phoenix
Mike   Phoenix
Daniel, they have plenty of fold-out 'Marty-maps' for LDC at the AZ Hiking Shack. Dec 23, 2015
Marcy
Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Marcy   Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Daniel, you could try contacting Marty Karabin , the author of the QC fold-outs (and out of print book). If I recall, his fold out has a pretty good overview of routes on the west side of the canyon (Hackberry, Glitter box, road area). I'm surprised REI doesn't have any. I used to have one somewhere but haven't seen it in years. Also, it is outdated as there have been many new routes and areas scattered throughout the area that will not be on the fold out (including the Refuge and LDE). A lot of the newer stuff is here on MP. If you have any specific questions, feel free to PM me or post up here. There are quite a few folks here that get out there pretty regularly and are would be happy to share information. Good luck! Dec 22, 2015
Dan Evans
Phoenix, AZ
Dan Evans   Phoenix, AZ
Does anyone have a pdf guide for all of LDC? REI doesn't have any paper guides and nothing on Mountain Project is in order making route finding fairly difficult. Not trying to sound like I am complaining or anything. I love this area and would be more than happy to assist in guide book/trail clearing projects. Shoot me a message, thanks! Dec 22, 2015
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
For everyone doing anchor replacement/updating. Thank you! May I suggest a tube of super glue or thread lock. Those fixe anchors are great, but don't have any form of lock. Nut, washer, etc.. With torque and cycle loading it's super easy for them to back off just a little. I found ~20 bolts/anchors (new ones) that were hand tight in a two week period...Tightened a few with the nut tool. But worth carrying a wrench or thread lock. Dec 3, 2015
nathan olsen
phoenix, az
nathan olsen   phoenix, az
If anyone found my camera flash at the base of The Totem Pole the week of November 8th, 2015 I would happily reward whoever returns it. Please contact me. Thank you. Nov 13, 2015
Marcy
Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Marcy   Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
It's rough. High clearance 4wd for the downhill on the way in. Nov 13, 2015
apoet
AZ
apoet   AZ
Does anyone know the current condition of the road? Nov 3, 2015
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
Roads in are not closed. All roads to Hackberry drainage are in great shape. Switchbacks are great, no water at all in the road by the corral. Road up to the ant hill is unchanged- rough. Jan 20, 2015
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Road's in the best shape that I've seen it in for years. Not sure why as the mine isn't drilling again, and the road up the Refuge hasn't been touched, but the switchbacks are easily navigable in 4 WD high. Still loose and rocky, obviously, but not like the damage I was expecting after these last big storms. We were the only souls down there and it was blissful! Oct 6, 2014
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
As of about 3/1/14 the roads are in worse shape. The last section of road up to the saddle from the hackberry creek drainage is about the same, but now the road down the switchbacks is nearly as bad. About 1.5 inches of rain around the 1st worsened the damage caused by the big fall of '13 storms. We made it in and out with a stock Tacoma, but I had to lock the diffy. On the plus side, zero crowds... Mar 6, 2014
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Road graded nicely to the first rise where the mining trucks turn left, but after that it's definitely feeling the absence of mining activity. The switchbacks are heading back to their bad state pre a few years ago. High clearance key and 4WD makes it a hell of a lot easier. Dec 22, 2013
Ben Beard
Superior, AZ
Ben Beard   Superior, AZ
Good news, the road looks like it was graded all the way to the Hackberry parking spot this week. The switchbacks and the rest of the road is in some of the best shape it has ever been. Oct 7, 2012
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
A heads up that the steep switchbacks have been eroded and gullied significantly by the summer rains. They aren't nearly as bad as they have been in the past, but are much worse than they were when the mine was maintaining them more regularly. Was happy to have 4WD getting back up them. Oct 2, 2012
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Ryan,
If you turn right at the base of the switchbacks you'll head up into a new area that we've (Arjun Heimsath and David Sampson) been developing. We've now posted most of the routes and called this area "The Refuge." There are about 60 climbs up in this area and we hope you check them out.
Arjun Nov 25, 2011
Ryan Myers
Tempe, Arizona
Ryan Myers   Tempe, Arizona
At the bottom of the hill instead of turning left to head to hackberry creek we turned right. What is this area called? Does it have established routes? Any info would be helpful thanks. Nov 7, 2011
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Was soloing down Hackberry yesterday and had the most magical sighting of a Coati -- the big male came ambling down from Dacite Conspiracy, where I was heading, dug up ants from a rotten cactus, free soloed his way down a 20 ft cliff, and snuffled around the creek in search of munchies. Keep your eyes open down there for such a wonderful view! Mar 17, 2010
manuel rangel
Arizona
manuel rangel   Arizona
Anyone know who finished Route #20 in the Karabin foldout guide to LDC? It is listed as a project. Marty has no idea who actually finished it. We did it today and found it spicy but ok. Jan 24, 2010
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
Glad you liked it, Kyle! If you climb trad, make sure to check out the east side next time. Dec 26, 2009
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
I just completed my first trip to QC, over christmas. Due to my limited time in the area I knew I had to check out the Lower Devil's Canyon area. I was worried about my car being a 2WD and making it down there be we totally rocked it out. The directions on this page were right on the money and really all you need. The guide book illustrations in the QC book were also helpful, but it could definitely be done without it. Note: my car is a nissan Xterra so we had great ground clearance, but actual 4wd is unneccesary, although RWD with a V6 was probably helpful on the hills. Don't be afraid if you have decent ground clearance, NOT TO BE MISSED! The webbing is kinda ridiculous though.... Dec 25, 2009
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
That goes for all areas. Please, folks, burn your TP or pack it out. Few things are as disgusting as soiled TP laying all over the place. Nov 27, 2009
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
Lower Devil's Canyon has some of the best climbing in the Phoenix area and should not be missed! Driving time to this area is about an hour, and the approach from the 2WD parking area is only about 30 minutes. For those with 4WD, you can park right next to it.

For those of you who have Google Earth, I put together a map showing the road in to LD along with the 2WD and 4WD parking spots.

The google earth file can be downloaded from geir.com/googleearth/queenc…

Once in this file, simply click on the file you want and select "open" from the window that appears. Follow the prompts from there and the road will display in Google Earth on your computer.

It works well, but I'm still learning to streamline the process of downloading the file so bear with me as I learn. :)


Google Earth can be downloaded for free at googleearth.com Mar 21, 2009

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