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Routes in Totem-Proto Area

Chicken Shit Salad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Direct North Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Drop 'em South S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fern Gully Arete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fruits of Optomisim, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
GTKO T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inertia T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Milk of Manatee T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Original Optomist T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Overcoming Inertia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pathological Optimist T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pipe Bomb T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pipe Cleaner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Protean Catch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Proto Pipe S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Proto Type T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shakin' & Eggs T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Totem Pole Direct S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Totem Pole, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Up in Smoke T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 110 ft
FA: Aaron Collins, Austin Sobotka, Scott Duemler, Tim Roley, Nate Young, Colten Kollenborn
Page Views: 3,402 total, 57/month
Shared By: Aaron Collins on Dec 30, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


34 Opinions

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Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

Afters years of hearing and seeing pictures of the Totem Pole I finally was able to get out there. I descovered for myself that it was truely an Az must do. It was done in the best and only style possible, ground up. It meanders up the pole taking the path of least resistance with the best drilling stances. I was seriouly impressed by the gumption the FA had. After walking around and looking at the tower, I couldn't help imagining other routes that would reach the summit. A couple months later withe the help of the existing route there is now another route to the summit.This route is found on the East side of the Totem Pole. It starts on a steep face and contiues up stustained climbing passing several bolts to the top. Though there are quite a few bolts, it is not a sport route. Gear is needed in two
sections of the route. It could potentially lead to ground fall should one fall tring to clip the third bolt with no gear. So play it safe and take gear. As one climber said "its a route to be proud of." Enjoy Az!

Protection

Rack of draws, singles from micro nuts, finger size, and tight hands
Dan Evans
Phoenix, AZ
  5.10b/c
Dan Evans   Phoenix, AZ
  5.10b/c
I was glad to have singles of .5 - 1" and a rack of small-med nuts. An incredible route on good rock with thoughtful cruxes and interesting movement. 5.8 climbing takes you to a very thoughtful bulge that I felt to be the crux of the route (.10b/c). After the bulge there is a really nice ledge that allows you to rest up for the summit push endurance fest. Save the .75 & 1" for the last 15 ft. Jan 29, 2017
J. Snyder
Flagstaff, Arizona
J. Snyder   Flagstaff, Arizona
Most excellent, smile times, hooray! This tower was hilarious fun! Nice job everyone involved. Likely one of my favorites! Apr 4, 2016
K-Tanz
Phoenix, AZ
  5.10c
K-Tanz   Phoenix, AZ
  5.10c
Awesome route! I would venture to say a new classic. I misread the beta and stoppped at the first set of anchors on my first go. Don't be me! If you have a 70m cord push it all the way to the top! 70 is just barely long enough for both ends to reach. I placed three pieces between bolts 2 and 3 (two would be safe) and one between the last bolt and anchors. Go climb this! Feb 12, 2014
matt evans
salt lake city, UT
  5.10
matt evans   salt lake city, UT
  5.10
Jumped over to this route after getting stuck on bolt#4 of the classic totem route ( left a quick draw up there for the next group to earn/steal. This route is easier. I placed two medium sized nuts and 2 cams (one small cam and one bd 0.5) in the 2 sections that require/take gear. Great route. Crux is 2-3 bolts before first anchor. 5.10b Apr 28, 2013
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10+
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10+
Wow, I had such a great time climbing this on Saturday! Nice work on this route you all and I now like this and the route that David hasn't posted yet (Gold) the most for the area. Such fun indeed! Well bolted and very thoughtful climbing. Apr 1, 2013
manuel rangel
Arizona
  5.10c
manuel rangel   Arizona
  5.10c
Climbing gets harder the higher you go. Rest before the first bulge on a great ledge. Work right to a great foothold and then one more steep part and you're into the crack. Nice gear. Feb 17, 2013
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10+
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10+
Yeah, this looks great -- well done!! I can't wait to get on it and enjoy a new route up that fantastic feature. And, yes, Nate, your pictures are really fantastic -- getting the exposures right down there is always so hard with such dramatic sun-shade contrasts. Thanks all!! Jan 7, 2013
Aaron Collins
Santan Valley, AZ
 
Aaron Collins   Santan Valley, AZ
 
Great shots Nate! I had a blast getting it done with you guys. Cant wait to get out there and get the direct and the south side done. Dec 31, 2012
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.10
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.10
Nice work guys. Looking forward to trying it! Dec 31, 2012
Nate Young
Phoenix
  5.10b/c
Nate Young   Phoenix
  5.10b/c
All of the beta for The Original Totem line works for this, just walk around the corner and you will see the first both up on the set of staircase ledges on the left hand side.

There are two cruxes on this route, the first isn't too bad, just involves some high stepping.

The second crux is a bit more heady since it requires you to step out onto the top of a larger bulging section. Move further right then you would think on top of the bulge and you'll be golden.

  • *A 70mm rope will allow you to top rope it after the initial lead.
  • ** I would recommend this route over the original based on aesthetics (personal opinion) and the lack of the wondering route search fest that the original requires you to do. HOWEVER, do both if you have time!
Dec 31, 2012