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> Shmotem Pole
High Man on the Shmotem Pole
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.4 from 13
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Routes in The Shmotem Pole
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High Man on the Shmotem Pole S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Shmotem Pole, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 130 ft (39 m) |
| FA: | Jon Ruland, Mike Dudley, Doso |
| Page Views: | 3,839 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Jon Ruland on Mar 21, 2010 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aaron Mc, Zach Levy, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area
Details
Climbing at The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area are private property, and now requires that you register in order to gain legal access. This is an easy process. You can do this at: queencreekclimbing.com/.
This is a one-time and free process so once you are registered you are good to go.
You can read more about this process and the announcement at the Queen Creek Coalition website – theqcc.com or the Queen Creek Coalition’s Facebook page – facebook.com/Queen-Creek-Co…
This is a one-time and free process so once you are registered you are good to go.
You can read more about this process and the announcement at the Queen Creek Coalition website – theqcc.com or the Queen Creek Coalition’s Facebook page – facebook.com/Queen-Creek-Co…
Description
Arete climbing at its finest, and it just keeps going and going. Follows the prominent arete on the right side of the Shmotem Pole from base to summit. Well protected, yet with enough space between the bolts to keep your attention. The first pitch ends on a ledge 15 feet to the right of the second belay on The Shmotem Pole. The second pitch is still a project and will probably go at about 5.12-.
UPDATE: This pitch is now considered an open project. However, there may still be a couple bolt hangers missing. If you want to try this route, please PM me (Jonathan Ruland) and I'll give you the hangers. They are painted to roughly match the rock color of LDE, like all the other hangers on this route.
NOTE: most of the rock is solid but don't get on this route thinking you can yard on anything and it will hold you.
Descent: The most straight-forward descent would be to trail a rope and do a 2-rope rappel straight down the arete to the base of the Shmotem Pole. Alternatively, if you have a 70-meter rope you can rappel down the south side of the Shmotem Pole to the pillar and scramble off.
Linkup: traverse through the chimney after pitch 1 and link this climb with the last pitch on The Shmotem Pole to top out on the summit of a really cool formation.
UPDATE: This pitch is now considered an open project. However, there may still be a couple bolt hangers missing. If you want to try this route, please PM me (Jonathan Ruland) and I'll give you the hangers. They are painted to roughly match the rock color of LDE, like all the other hangers on this route.
NOTE: most of the rock is solid but don't get on this route thinking you can yard on anything and it will hold you.
Descent: The most straight-forward descent would be to trail a rope and do a 2-rope rappel straight down the arete to the base of the Shmotem Pole. Alternatively, if you have a 70-meter rope you can rappel down the south side of the Shmotem Pole to the pillar and scramble off.
Linkup: traverse through the chimney after pitch 1 and link this climb with the last pitch on The Shmotem Pole to top out on the summit of a really cool formation.
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