Type: Sport, 150 ft
FA: Jon Ruland, Mike Dudley, Doso
Page Views: 2,620 total · 23/month
Shared By: Jon Ruland on Mar 21, 2010
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

Arete climbing at its finest, and it just keeps going and going. Follows the prominent arete on the right side of the Shmotem Pole from base to summit. Well protected, yet with enough space between the bolts to keep your attention. The first pitch ends on a ledge 15 feet to the right of the second belay on The Shmotem Pole. The second pitch is still a project and will probably go at about 5.12-.

UPDATE: This pitch is now considered an open project. However, there may still be a couple bolt hangers missing. If you want to try this route, please PM me (Jonathan Ruland) and I'll give you the hangers. They are painted to roughly match the rock color of LDE, like all the other hangers on this route.

NOTE: most of the rock is solid but don't get on this route thinking you can yard on anything and it will hold you.

Descent: The most straight-forward descent would be to trail a rope and do a 2-rope rappel straight down the arete to the base of the Shmotem Pole. Alternatively, if you have a 70-meter rope you can rappel down the south side of the Shmotem Pole to the pillar and scramble off.

Linkup: traverse through the chimney after pitch 1 and link this climb with the last pitch on The Shmotem Pole to top out on the summit of a really cool formation.

Location

The striking arete on the right (southwest) side of the Shmotem Pole. Starts 15 feet to the right of The Shmotem Pole standard route.

Protection

14 bolts, rap anchors.

Photos