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Routes in The Shmotem Pole

High Man on the Shmotem Pole S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Shmotem Pole, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 150 ft
FA: Jon Ruland, Mike Dudley, Doso
Page Views: 2,260 total · 23/month
Shared By: Jon Ruland on Mar 21, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

Arete climbing at its finest, and it just keeps going and going. Follows the prominent arete on the right side of the Shmotem Pole from base to summit. Well protected, yet with enough space between the bolts to keep your attention. The first pitch ends on a ledge 15 feet to the right of the second belay on The Shmotem Pole. The second pitch is still a project and will probably go at about 5.12-.

UPDATE: This pitch is now considered an open project. However, there may still be a couple bolt hangers missing. If you want to try this route, please PM me (Jonathan Ruland) and I'll give you the hangers. They are painted to roughly match the rock color of LDE, like all the other hangers on this route.

NOTE: most of the rock is solid but don't get on this route thinking you can yard on anything and it will hold you.

Descent: The most straight-forward descent would be to trail a rope and do a 2-rope rappel straight down the arete to the base of the Shmotem Pole. Alternatively, if you have a 70-meter rope you can rappel down the south side of the Shmotem Pole to the pillar and scramble off.

Linkup: traverse through the chimney after pitch 1 and link this climb with the last pitch on The Shmotem Pole to top out on the summit of a really cool formation.

Location

The striking arete on the right (southwest) side of the Shmotem Pole. Starts 15 feet to the right of The Shmotem Pole standard route.

Protection

14 bolts, rap anchors.

Photos

Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
 
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
 
whoops. LOL! Dec 4, 2015
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.11-
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.11-
That wasn't me posting John. :) Dec 4, 2015
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
 
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
 
that glue would be me geir. back when mike and i were bolting this thing i tried to reinforce a key hold at the crux but it broke off anyway, leaving an ugly glue mark behind.

and i agree, it is unfortunate that the rock quality deteriorates so much as this route has amazing position and would be classic otherwise. Dec 3, 2015
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Great first pitch!! Loved it!!!

Sooo...the 2nd pitch, for those curious...All the hangers are on this so I am assuming it has been done by now.


Great setting and wonderful location add dramatically to this pitch. Sadly the rock quality greatly diminishes by the 4th bolt. Looks like someone tried to glue a few holds, but it's like 50years worth of nachos glued to the wall.

9-10 bolts 100'
11d if you're tall
12a if you're opposite tall Dec 3, 2015
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
I talked to Jon and he has updated the route description to make this an open project. Have at it! He's got the camoed hangers too for anybody who wants them. Nov 12, 2012
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.11-
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.11-
Very fun indeed and I look forward to finishing up the top pitch when you'll are done with it. Love the exposure and your bolting is done really well. Thanks for a great line! Dec 8, 2010
Nice route! At 150', pitch 1 goes and goes. Just like Manny said - found everything I needed to get my butt up this route on both sides of the arete. Damn good time! Nov 27, 2010
Thanks for the route; good line. I had much fun on it! Nov 18, 2010
Andy Bennett
Tucson, AZ
Andy Bennett   Tucson, AZ
I can't wait to get on this thing, and everything at the Devils. Thanks for all the hard work! Nov 3, 2010
Jimbo  
Long, sustained and really fun. Don Buland does it again, and to think we started him on the road to new routing. I'm so proud.

Rock seemed fine for LDE. I didn't pull off any holds either.

Can't wait for the top pitch. Apr 27, 2010
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
 
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
 
thanks geir, i changed the description to account for the 2 ropes necessary. wouldn't want to get anyone stuck on the shmotem pole. =) Mar 31, 2010
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.11-
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.11-
just an fyi after reading the descent options - the descent for The Shmotem Pole requires two ropes at this time. we'll probably add another anchor to change this, but right now make sure to bring a second rope to get down. :) Mar 23, 2010
Marcy M
Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Marcy M   Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Nice job, Jon and Mike :) I have many photos of the FA for you! Congrats! Mar 23, 2010
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.11-
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.11-
Wow! This climb is AIRY and exhilarating! All it needs is some rain to wash off the dust and a few ascents to clean some loose stuff and it will be four stars in my book.

Congrats and thanks to Jon and Mike for their tremendous efforts in cleaning and bolting this stunning arete!! I can tell you that they spent many cold, windy days diligently working on this route and credit is certainly due.

Also, thanks to you guys for sharing the route before the second pitch has been completed so that others may enjoy it. You guys are terrific!

For everyone else, please respect the second pitch as a project until it has been completed. You can continue to the top via The Shmotem Pole or rap the route. Mar 22, 2010
manuel rangel
Arizona
  5.11- PG13
manuel rangel   Arizona
  5.11- PG13
Very nice line, I didn't break any holds and only threw off a couple small bits on a ledge. It was great fun, had me working both sides of the arete. I found lots to work with and give it 3 stars! Mar 22, 2010
roman d
Pasadena, CA
roman d   Pasadena, CA
Way to go! Mar 21, 2010
Mike Dudley
Vegas
  5.11a
Mike Dudley   Vegas
  5.11a
Really fun climb! Just wanted to second John's comment on the second pitch. The second pitch is not finished and is still a project. We have spend many a day on this route so please respect the second pitch and let us finish this project.

CAUTION!!!! This is a new route and we did as much cleaning as we could, however it is very possible that lots more will come off. Make sure your belayer has a helmet please!

With that said you can link the first pitch of the High Man with the second pitch of the original route. Enjoy the climb guys its ultra fun!

Big thanks to Geir and Marcy for the drill and all the help. You guys are the best! Mar 21, 2010

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