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Routes in Totem-Proto Area

Chicken Shit Salad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Direct North Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Drop 'em South S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fern Gully Arete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fruits of Optomisim, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
GTKO T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inertia T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Milk of Manatee T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Original Optomist T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Overcoming Inertia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pathological Optimist T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pipe Bomb T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pipe Cleaner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Protean Catch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Proto Pipe S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Proto Type T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shakin' & Eggs T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Totem Pole Direct S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Totem Pole, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Up in Smoke T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 20,717 total, 152/month
Shared By: Mike on Sep 17, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

A tall, slender tower in a scenic location with good climbing and a tiny summit make for a great route. Start low on the NE side and climb up and right, slowly circling around to the West side to a belay. Belay here to avoid rope drag or, with a long rope, continue up to the top.

Protection

Mostly bolted, but up high (at the crux) it helps to place a nut or two to reduce the slight runout.

Location

Walk down into the main canyon from the parking area. There will be 2 tall towers on the right. The upper one is Proto-pipe (it looks just like one) and the lower one is the Totem Pole.

Photos

Hank Legan
Austin, Texas
  5.10d PG13
Hank Legan   Austin, Texas
  5.10d PG13
If you've made it this far, quit thinking about it and go climb this route. Super fun. I do think the first pitch is a bit sandbagged when people say it's a 5.8ish warm-up for the second pitch. There was a definite crux up above the 3rd bolt that involved really high feet and locking off on a pretty terrible sloper crimp. Unless I just completely botched the beta that sequence felt arguably harder than the crux up top.

Definitely bring a nut or two on this one. That top crux has a lot of air under it. Mar 13, 2017
Justin Headley   Tucson
Jordan, I'd be hesitant to lead it without a piece above the last bolt, since there's the potential to fall onto a ledge if you blow the crux. Just buy or borrow a #4 BD nut and that's all you should need. Also, the start of this route is not obvious. The first bolt is something like 20-25 feet up (on 5.6-5.7 ground) and you can't really see the 2nd bolt until you're right on top of it. Nov 4, 2016
Jordan Kahlbau
phoenix
Jordan Kahlbau   phoenix
would it be reasonably safe to lead this with just the bolts and no placed pro? how bad would the runout be? im hoping to climb it Friday morning, if yall let me know i will be forever greatful thanks :) Mar 23, 2016
youtu.be/xd31deaz9xs

Hey Guys, Just cut this for some of my friends. Let me know your thoughts.

Pretty epic area. Just starting these, so if you have some requests or want to schedule some climbing outings.

We are based in Phoenix, AZ, but we travel quite a bit.

Thanks,
Fletch Mar 9, 2016
Joshua Munoz  
 
A .5 cam can also be used for pro. I placed it to the left just above the first crack above the last bolt. Feb 2, 2016
Marcy
Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
  5.10+
Marcy   Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
  5.10+
If you mean leaving your vehicle just before the big hill on the way in, I'd say this will add about 10-15 minutes to get to the small pullout for Hackberry plus whatever time to get to your desired area from there. It's gorgeous out there now with all the recent rain. Jan 25, 2016
Stephenmontgomery   Maryland
What is the approach time like from the first Lower Devils Canyon parking lot? I don't think a Nissan Altima is going to make it to the hackleberry parking lot. Jan 24, 2016
Marcy
Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
  5.10+
Marcy   Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
  5.10+
Brent - It's quite possible that some rock has broken off. There is definitely a a move or two between the first and second bolts that had my attention. I recall placing a small alien (blue, maybe) near the arete the first time I lead it. Oct 22, 2014
Brent Butcher
  5.10d
Brent Butcher  
  5.10d
Does anyone know if any flakes have popped off near the top? The first few moves past the chains felt a little stout, looks like fresh rock. I would say the first few moves past the chains goes at a 10+ Feb 18, 2014
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10+
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10+
Wow, that's impressive on all counts. Close call indeed, and good recovery. Will get on you'lls new route soon! Jan 7, 2013
Aaron Collins
Santan Valley, AZ
 
Aaron Collins   Santan Valley, AZ
 
Just an FYI the rope was a Monster 10mm. Dec 31, 2012
Nate Young
Phoenix
  5.10c/d
Nate Young   Phoenix
  5.10c/d
I was asked to do a quick trip report for this route because one of our friends took a pretty sweet fall and walked away!

When Austin was attempting an on-site ascent of the original Totem Route, he took a fairly substantial fall, and subsequent swing, of about 30 feet. Austin was pretty much at the 4th bolt, and stopped falling well below the second bolt on the route! It was a pretty scary experience for everyone because as he was falling, his rope ended up catching on a sharp flake or rock, which severed the outer sheathing completely, and also destroyed a few of the core strands which give the rope it's strength. His fall was stopped about 8 feet above the deck, so close I was able to reach up and touch his foot while standing on the ground.

This was his rope after the fall. You can still see the rope where it went through the sharp flake at the top of the image.



This is a pic of Austin at the bottom after he was lowered to the ground. The green/blue portion of the rope is the protective sheathing, and the white strands are the dynamic core that gives the rope it’s strength.



To his credit, Austin roped up again (ON A DIFFERENT ROPE) and was able to make a clean ascent on his second try!





Dec 31, 2012
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
  5.10b/c
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
  5.10b/c
What a blast. The summit, the view. Just about perfect. Did it as one pitch on my 70. and one rap to ground no problem. For me the crux below the first belay felt 10d? The top crux felt 10-. Plenty of places for pro above the last bolt. Mar 9, 2012
Micah Kurtz
Denver, Co
Micah Kurtz   Denver, Co
A great route for sure. The summit is amazing. Feb 21, 2012
roman d
Pasadena, CA
  5.10d
roman d   Pasadena, CA
  5.10d
Route length is ~115 feet. Straightforward to rap the whole thing with a single 70m rope. Bats in summit crack chirped at me when I got to the top! Apr 4, 2011
Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
Fun climbing to a terrific summit make this a classic for me!

Most of the climbing is straightforward - maybe 5.9. The moves after the final bolt feel 10 to 10+. A medium stopper works well to protect the crux and I a found a bomber black alien placement after the crux.

Marcy and I took a pair of clippers with us on the approach trail and pruned back the vegetation, so the climb is much easier to get to now. Just go to the rock gully at the edge of the canyon, turn right, and follow the cairns toward the pole. Apr 17, 2010
Doug113
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Doug113   Flagstaff, AZ
 
climbed this summer of 09 and thought it was a great route. a bit of bushwacking to get to it though. nice shade though when you reach it. Feb 16, 2010
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10+
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10+
Just one or two small nuts for the top! And, a 00 cam just doesn't work that well...A truly exceptional climb. Jun 15, 2009
JimmyK
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10c/d
JimmyK   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10c/d
Need a #4 nut to protect the top portion of the 2nd pitch. There was a little bushwackin' but the approach was only 15 minutes from vehicle.
Directions to Lower Devil Climbing area: From US 60, exit south on Oak Flat Road Campground road, travel 1.3 miles on paved road, take left on a gravel road. Drive about 2 miles on gravel road, at the bottom of the meadow, take a left at the old windmill (still there as of 01/17/09). Drive appx 1 mile to the road end. (Gravel road is rough, high clearence 4 wheel drive recommended!) Jan 24, 2009
Mike
Phoenix
 
Mike   Phoenix
 
The access road has been greatly improved and is now accessable with a high-clearance 2WD vehicle all the way to the Hackberry Creek turnout parking. Nov 15, 2007
Braxtron
...
  5.10+
Braxtron   ...
  5.10+
You better like bushwhackin' to do the approach for this one. Bring small stoppers for the end of P2. I linked both pitches with no problems using 2' runners and a 60m rope.

As of Oct. 2007, both anchors need attention. One bolt at each belay is either spinning or flexing. Oct 15, 2007