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Routes in The Bulges

1923 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
3RNs T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dr. No Way T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Octabulgey T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
You Only Nest Twice T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Arjun Heimsath
Page Views: 716 total, 10/month
Shared By: arjunmh on Nov 25, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

First climb set in The Refuge. Name derived from the James Bond movie, "Octopussy." First climbed ground up in a wandering way while rope-soloing and searching for good gear placements. Two subsequent leads of the climb convinced AMH to add the bolts to insure a straight line through the crux of the bulges, which increased the difficulty of the climb. Original placements were all horizontal and the cruxes barely protected with small cams. Bolts protect the cruxes, but climb and belay carefully as the most difficult bulge requires very committing moves to clear.

Location

The centerpiece of the area, see map.

Protection

Small gear with some medium placements and 3 bolts protect the crux bulges.

Photos

KayLeann Leann
Tempe, AZ
 
KayLeann Leann   Tempe, AZ
 
Such a fun route! Loved the power moves on the bulges. Used a 70m but it's possible to use a 60 m if you use the ledge. The three bolts are perfect for protecting the ledges. Feb 17, 2014
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
A long time since I've done this and it was very cool to get back on it. Definitely committing and some small pieces (I used a 0 and 1 C3, but blue and black Aliens would be ok) are key to a calmer ascent. 60 m rope no problem. Dec 22, 2013
manuel rangel
Arizona
 
manuel rangel   Arizona
 
A very committing route. My protection did not inspire confidence, especially the pieces below the 4th bolt. I found better placements above the ledge but just passed by and climbed on.

It could use more traffic to help with cleaning the route. I knocked off a bit of rock. Oct 30, 2012
Ben Beard
Superior, AZ
 
Ben Beard   Superior, AZ
 
I started off on the right on a small ledge and was able to get a 60 meter rope to reach (tie knots). For some gear beta, I used a #1 and #2 c3, blue tcu, and a #3 c4. Depends how you like it. The three bolts give great confidence, and the ledges underneath the tough bulges allow you to take a look at the moves, get a rest, and pull 'em! Feb 17, 2012
Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
This is one of the most unusual and fun routes I have ever done in QC. Eight bulge/roof moves in one climb - how crazy is that??? Kudos to Arjun for his bold ground up, solo, gear only onsight first ascent. Even with the bolts the climb still is committing in spots. Very well done! Nov 25, 2011