Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Geir, Marcy, and Doso
Page Views: 2,383 total · 21/month
Shared By: Geir www.ToofastTopos.com on Oct 11, 2009
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

20 Opinions

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Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details


A modern Queen Creek classic. This beautiful, right-leaning crack and corner system lies on the west face of the Lunchbox. It is an unusual Queen Creek climb as it combines true crack climbing, tricky stemming, and powerful laybacks on an entirely gear-protected route. For those climbing trad at the grade, it should not be missed.

Descent: A 60m rope is just long enough to rap the route with rope stretch. Be careful and make sure your rope is the whole way down. For those who come up a bit short, stop at the anchors for Hold the Jam (about 1/3 of the way down on your right) and then do a second rappel to the ground.


See overview photo.


Stoppers, singles through 1.75". Triples of #2 and #3 Camalot & doubles of #1 and #4 Camalot.


Joe Garcia
Phoenix, Az
Joe Garcia   Phoenix, Az
Wonderful route! One of my favorites in queen creek! Bring your lead head on this one! Nov 3, 2009
David Arthur Sampson  
Definitely my favorite route at LDE (at the moment; things can change)
THANKS Geir and Marcy for finding this route!!! Nov 3, 2009
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Sweet and well protected indeed! Some loose stuff down low, pulled off now, but the cruxy part is terrific, truly. Still prefer Throat choker b/c of the length, diversity and the views from top, but this is second so far...awesome find you both, thanks! Nov 8, 2009
roman d
Pasadena, CA
roman d   Pasadena, CA
One of my favorites at LDE for sure. The first 50 feet or so are continuous and physical. Lots of jamming for Queen Creek, a nice change of pace. Nov 16, 2009
Geir www.ToofastTopos.com
Tucson, AZ
Geir www.ToofastTopos.com   Tucson, AZ
Yesterday I got on this climb and gave it a very thorough cleaning. Other than some dust that will wash off with the next rain, you should find it in prime shape. Dec 6, 2009
Catherine Conner
Phoenix, AZ
Catherine Conner   Phoenix, AZ
I can't rant and rave enough about this climb. I think it's the best climb in Lower Devils area! If you like trad and crack and being able to pro well, this is IT!!!! Thought it was sustained. My hardest trad lead yet, LOVE IT, a MUST DO!!!! Jan 19, 2010
Tyler Williams
Flagstaff, AZ
Tyler Williams   Flagstaff, AZ
great route! one less loose foothold at the crux after my trip up :) Feb 8, 2010
JD Kendall
Winslow, AZ
JD Kendall   Winslow, AZ
Excellent route! Definitely a must do... sustained 10c climbing for most of the route. Definitely a challenging lead. Apr 20, 2010
As good as any moderate trad route anywhere in Arizona.

Awesome feature with great gear.

This ones got it all. Hands, fists, locks and lay backs.

10c at the start and bit easier the rest of the way. Apr 27, 2010
Geir www.ToofastTopos.com
Tucson, AZ
Geir www.ToofastTopos.com   Tucson, AZ
On November 12 Marcy redpointed this route on her first attempt with no warmup. It is her hardest pure trad redpoint to date. Congrats!!! Nov 17, 2010
Marcy's getting her trad on! This route is no gimme, great job Marcy! Nov 18, 2010
Marcy -
Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Marcy -   Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Muchas gracias, Geir and Jim! I couldn't/wouldn't have done it without Geir on belay =) Nov 21, 2010
Mike   Phoenix
What a great route, consistently steep & fun. This isn't your ordinary Queen Creek crack. Mar 9, 2011
J Mo
Tucson, AZ
J Mo   Tucson, AZ
Spicy start, then sustained, then bliss. Thanks to Geir and Marcy for the labor of love at this truly special place. Nov 6, 2011
Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
first of all, to add to the plethora of comments alluding to it already, it is an awesome line! this and smokin' guns are definitely my two favorite routes in queen creek. though i thought the rating of 10b/c was a little generous. for the area i could see it falling in that range,but more universally i would put it at 9+/10-. only mentioning it because it would be a shame to scare away folks who climb consistently in sandbagged areas, or have only experienced trad in such areas Jan 13, 2013