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Routes in The Lunchbox

Blueberry Lizards T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Centipede Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chocolotate Covered Scorpion Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
El Throatchoker Grande T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Frosted Snakes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hold the Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Talia Sandwich T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whine and Cheese T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Geir, Marcy, and Doso
Page Views: 2,227 total, 22/month
Shared By: Geir on Oct 11, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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22 Opinions

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Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

A modern Queen Creek classic. This beautiful, right-leaning crack and corner system lies on the west face of the Lunchbox. It is an unusual Queen Creek climb as it combines true crack climbing, tricky stemming, and powerful laybacks on an entirely gear-protected route. For those climbing trad at the grade, it should not be missed.

Descent: A 60m rope is just long enough to rap the route with rope stretch. Be careful and make sure your rope is the whole way down. For those who come up a bit short, stop at the anchors for Hold the Jam (about 1/3 of the way down on your right) and then do a second rappel to the ground.

Location

See overview photo.

Protection

Stoppers, singles through 1.75". Triples of #2 and #3 Camalot & doubles of #1 and #4 Camalot.
Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
5.10-
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
5.10-
first of all, to add to the plethora of comments alluding to it already, it is an awesome line! this and smokin' guns are definitely my two favorite routes in queen creek. though i thought the rating of 10b/c was a little generous. for the area i could see it falling in that range,but more universally i would put it at 9+/10-. only mentioning it because it would be a shame to scare away folks who climb consistently in sandbagged areas, or have only experienced trad in such areas Jan 13, 2013
JMo
Tucson, AZ
 
JMo   Tucson, AZ
 
Spicy start, then sustained, then bliss. Thanks to Geir and Marcy for the labor of love at this truly special place. Nov 6, 2011
Mike
Phoenix
  5.10b
Mike   Phoenix
  5.10b
What a great route, consistently steep & fun. This isn't your ordinary Queen Creek crack. Mar 9, 2011
Marcy
Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
  5.10
Marcy   Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
  5.10
Muchas gracias, Geir and Jim! I couldn't/wouldn't have done it without Geir on belay =) Nov 21, 2010
Jimbo  
Marcy's getting her trad on! This route is no gimme, great job Marcy! Nov 18, 2010
Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
On November 12 Marcy redpointed this route on her first attempt with no warmup. It is her hardest pure trad redpoint to date. Congrats!!! Nov 17, 2010
Jimbo  
As good as any moderate trad route anywhere in Arizona.

Awesome feature with great gear.

This ones got it all. Hands, fists, locks and lay backs.

10c at the start and bit easier the rest of the way. Apr 27, 2010
JD Kendall
Winslow, AZ
 
JD Kendall   Winslow, AZ
 
Excellent route! Definitely a must do... sustained 10c climbing for most of the route. Definitely a challenging lead. Apr 20, 2010
Tyler Williams
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10b
Tyler Williams   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10b
great route! one less loose foothold at the crux after my trip up :) Feb 8, 2010
Catherine Conner
Phoenix, AZ
  5.10b/c
Catherine Conner   Phoenix, AZ
  5.10b/c
I can't rant and rave enough about this climb. I think it's the best climb in Lower Devils area! If you like trad and crack and being able to pro well, this is IT!!!! Thought it was sustained. My hardest trad lead yet, LOVE IT, a MUST DO!!!! Jan 19, 2010
Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
Yesterday I got on this climb and gave it a very thorough cleaning. Other than some dust that will wash off with the next rain, you should find it in prime shape. Dec 6, 2009
roman d
Pasadena, CA
  5.10b
roman d   Pasadena, CA
  5.10b
One of my favorites at LDE for sure. The first 50 feet or so are continuous and physical. Lots of jamming for Queen Creek, a nice change of pace. Nov 16, 2009
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10c
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10c
Sweet and well protected indeed! Some loose stuff down low, pulled off now, but the cruxy part is terrific, truly. Still prefer Throat choker b/c of the length, diversity and the views from top, but this is second so far...awesome find you both, thanks! Nov 8, 2009
David Arthur Sampson  
  5.10c
Definitely my favorite route at LDE (at the moment; things can change)
THANKS Geir and Marcy for finding this route!!! Nov 3, 2009
Joe Garcia
Phoenix, Az
  5.10c
Joe Garcia   Phoenix, Az
  5.10c
Wonderful route! One of my favorites in queen creek! Bring your lead head on this one! Nov 3, 2009