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Routes in The Lunchbox

Blueberry Lizards T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Centipede Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chocolotate Covered Scorpion Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
El Throatchoker Grande T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Frosted Snakes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hold the Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Talia Sandwich T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whine and Cheese T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Geir, Marcy & Doso
Page Views: 745 total, 7/month
Shared By: Marcy on Oct 11, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

This east-facing climb is directly opposite Centipede Corner. Climb the left leaning dihedral to a point where a bolt appears on your right. Traverse to the bolt and clip it, then continue around the corner to a steep ramp. Place more gear and work through the spicy moves to the top.

Single rope rappel via the anchors for Hold the Jam.

Location

See overview map

Protection

Doubles to #2 Camalot

Photos

Jimbo  
Though not as good as Centipede Corner, well worth doing.

Definitely on the hard side of 5.9, with some tricky gear.

The finish after the bolt is actually quite good. Apr 27, 2010
Catherine Conner
Phoenix, AZ
  5.9
Catherine Conner   Phoenix, AZ
  5.9
I really loved this route too- I didn't lead it, and am suspecting when I do, that it may get a 5.9+ rating. The first dihedral section is AWESOME! Then a well placed bolt gives you the courage to continue out and around a bit to some tricky pro or just run it out... I will try and pro it because I'm a "sew it up" type of gal. Really looking forward to getting back to this one. Jan 19, 2010
roman d
Pasadena, CA
  5.9
roman d   Pasadena, CA
  5.9
The upper face can be protected well with a green alien or the like. Aside from the looseness on the top, this is a really fun climb.

edit: did this again on lead - feels solid compared to the other nines in the area Nov 16, 2009
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.9+
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.9+
The "spicy moves" to the top are hard to protect -- a la "Advanced Geir" -- but not as hard as the corner crack crux, and if doing again I'd probably skip and just go, risking the runout. Nov 9, 2009