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Routes in The Lunchbox

Blueberry Lizards T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Centipede Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chocolotate Covered Scorpion Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
El Throatchoker Grande T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Frosted Snakes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hold the Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Talia Sandwich T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whine and Cheese T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: Marcy, Geir & Doso
Page Views: 2,252 total, 23/month
Shared By: Marcy on Oct 11, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

Start just left of the center of the face near two small pockets at head height. Using the pockets pull up to a small ledge. Work to a prominent vertical crack, then step left into a crack leading into a “pod” (shallow cave). Stem up the pod and exit to the right into a long, fun crack that widens as you go up. At the end of the wide crack follow discontinuous cracks to the top.

Descent - Two choices: (1) You can do 1 double rope rappel from Blueberry Lizards. (2) Two single line rappels: Locate 2 bolt anchor with leaver-biners just south of the Throatchoker top-out. Rappel ~40' to the the anchor for Centipede Corner then rappel Centipede Corner (A 60m rope is just long enough with rope stretch to get down. If you come up short you can swing to the right a bit and then scramble down).

Location

See Lunchbox overview map

Protection

1/2" to #5 Camalot; doubles of #2 through #4 Camalot are nice.
Sayfe
Scottsdale, az
  5.9-
Sayfe   Scottsdale, az
  5.9-
Clean and fun route, make sure to take a #5 or 4 for the wide crack above the overhand, we did it without it which was not fun. Id say more like 5.8+ Jan 20, 2013
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.9-
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.9-
Yes, the big loose boulder has been bugging me for a while too -- never able to knock it off because of dogs and people below. Hanna rolled it off two days ago while Isis watched from well below where the sun was! Makes this wonderful climb even nicer. Dec 28, 2010
Tim Heid
AZ
  5.8+
Tim Heid   AZ
  5.8+
What an awesome route! I had so much fun leading this one. I walked my #5 for about 10' until I was very happy with the placement, but the rest of the climb had perfect gear and was great fun. This climb reminded me a lot of Bishop's Terrace in Yosemite :)!

Definitely one to get on every time we come out to this amazing place!

Note: The climb was nice and clean except for one pretty big loose block on the ledge after the OW. You can easily avoid using it, but we did step over it with care. Nov 22, 2010
Marcy
Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
 
Marcy   Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
 
Catherine...I think bouldery is a spot on description for the the opening moves of this line. Glad you liked it! It's one of my favorites in the area :) Feb 8, 2010
Catherine Conner
Phoenix, AZ
  5.9
Catherine Conner   Phoenix, AZ
  5.9
This is a nice long trad route. I found it to be sort of a bouldery start...? Make sure to bring a 5 or you will be unhappy-and a 4. A bit cruxy getting into the offwidth (or maybe just heady getting the gear in/and then being happy). Always fun to use the 5! I thought 5.9. Jan 19, 2010
roman d
Pasadena, CA
  5.8+
roman d   Pasadena, CA
  5.8+
Fun line! I think I used doubles to #2 camalot and singles of #3, #4, and #5 (C4). Nov 16, 2009
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.9
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.9
The move right off the ground is probably 5.9, everything else felt like 5.8. I can't comment on the offwidth cause I only made one real offwidth move at the bottom just to get a piece in the back.

You can shove yourself in the offwidth the whole way, but I find that really hard to do when there's so many face holds you can use to avoid it :-)

Fun route! Nov 15, 2009
Marcy
Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
 
Marcy   Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
 
And the wide crack is in the upper portion of the climb...so you don't get to unload the big stuff right away. Turned out #6 is not needed, can get by nicely with a #4 and #5. Nov 5, 2009
Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
Thanks, Arjun! Glad you liked it! Marcy did this FA onsight and was very excited that it went entirely on gear. We didn't know exactly what to expect with that huge wide crack up there, so Marcy carried up a world of big gear to #6. The crux on Marcy's FA was probably the opening moves with 20 pounds of gear dangling off her! Nov 4, 2009
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.9-
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.9-
Climbed it with Marcy and agree that this is a delightful route. Love the diversity and the length of the route and it has indeed cleaned up nicely. My favorite in LDE so far ... Thanks for another great route Marcy and Geir!! Nov 4, 2009
I think that this climb has cleaned up nicely. Nice long climb with varied moves and a short crux; this climb is a must do. Nov 3, 2009
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.9-
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.9-
there's still plenty of loose stuff on this one, but once that is gone this climb will almost certainly be a 4-star classic. it's got everything a trad climber could want at the grade. Oct 26, 2009