Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Main Wall - Center

Caduceus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Closer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Doubts Even Here T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Emission T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Euphoric Recall T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Everything's Gone Green T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Friend of the Devil T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Further T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gambler, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Gear and Moaning T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Gone Grey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Great Race S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
GungHo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Indecent Exposure S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
La Vida Loca T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Little District in the Neighborhood T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Need Em Brain T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
No White Flag S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Peacenik S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Proposal, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Redneck Protester S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scrambled Legs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
SemperFi T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Slate's Day Off S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Snake in a Tree T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vagina Envy T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Vertical Addiction T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vitamin M S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Walking Dead Arete T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
War Hippies T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Yin Yang S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 190 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,917 total, 21/month
Shared By: markguycan on Apr 16, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


33 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

walk @ 150 yds south of EGG on ledge to huge light green arete. Climb past 6 bolts and 3 small nuts to the chain anchors on a small ledge for pitch 1 (5.8). Climb both sides of the arete on the second pitch, past 7 bolts and pro to a large green ledge(crux pitch). 1st 2 pitches combine nicely for 190ft enduro pitch. Finish on an easy crack to top. Rappel route with a 60m rope.

Protection

bolts, gear to #1camalot

Photos

manuel rangel
Arizona
 
manuel rangel   Arizona
 
Did anyone find two draws and a nut on the route? Jun 11, 2017
Joshua Munoz  
 
Great warm up if you just combine the 2 pitches. Gets your head on straight too. Gear is not necessary if you don't mind a little runout. Great holds and footing the whole way up. Mar 30, 2016
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10a/b
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10a/b
An absolutely sweet line! Thanks for yet another, Manny! First 2 pitches as one is the smoothest way to go and topping out is fun after the last little trad pitch. Apr 4, 2010
Mike
Phoenix
 
Mike   Phoenix
 
The 2nd pitch is awesome! The first and third pitches are good too, but not as great as the 2nd. I generally lead the first 2 as one loooooong pitch then rap.

FA: M. Rangel. Jul 13, 2009
Great route...having to make a few gear placements adds to the fun and excitement. Never place bolts near cracks or seams that accept gear! Routes should never be retro-bolted, so leave it as it is. 5 stars!!! Kudos to the first ascensionists! Jun 30, 2008
... and saving yourself money. I didn't mind the gear section, just take a few cams from finger size to 0.75 camalot. You should be bringing a rack when you go to Iso anyway... Mar 8, 2008
Jimbo  
No it's a sport route with two places you can put some gear. You may call that mixed I don't.
I put up routes that are mixed all the time. I.E. just as many gear placements as bolts or ideally more gear than bolts.
Your doing nothing but massaging your own ego by making someone carry a whole rack to put in two pieces a gear somewhere along an endless line of bolts.
Nov 5, 2007
Flex
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Flex   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Jimbo, this route is a "mixed" type route. Please appreciate these type of climbs. I for one hate seeing bolted cracks, even only short sections of them. As you said, there are plenty of pure trad and pure sport routes around. It's refreshing to come across the few crag(not Grade III or longer)mixed routes. Many props to the developers of this area to have adopted this style. Nov 3, 2007
Jimbo  
Did this last week with a couple of Flagstaffers. We all led it as one pitch. One of the best routes I've done in a long time.
My only peeve it having to bring a rack for a couple of gear placements on what is otherwise a sport route. Seems king of silly to me.
I mean it's not like you gotta "step up" to lead the thing cause it as some "gear". Drill a few extra bolts and call it sport. There are plenty of trad lines people can scratch up there cams on.
Just my opinion. Nov 2, 2007
Just did the first two pitches, combined as one... lots of bolts and three gear placements ran almost the full length of my 60m. Crux is techincal, airy, well protected, and very exposed. Amazing line, totally classic!! Jul 25, 2007