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Routes in Totem-Proto Area

Chicken Shit Salad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Direct North Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Drop 'em South S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fern Gully Arete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fruits of Optomisim, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
GTKO T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inertia T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Milk of Manatee T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Original Optomist T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Overcoming Inertia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pathological Optimist T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pipe Bomb T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pipe Cleaner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Protean Catch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Proto Pipe S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Proto Type T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shakin' & Eggs T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Totem Pole Direct S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Totem Pole, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Up in Smoke T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
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Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: David Sampson and Arjun Heimsath
Page Views: 715 total · 10/month
Shared By: arjunmh on Apr 8, 2013
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details


Start up the prominent arete leading up the northeast side of Proto Pipe. There are two bolts down relatively low, just above the easy to get to ledge, to help you locate the climb and protect the initial stretch of the arete. Stay on the crest of the arete and climb through tricky gear and some slight runout with moderate climbing to get to a small nut protected committing bulge/roof move. This is the crux. You've got good gear at your feet and if you've got the right size nut it should be bomber. Getting there is not for the timid though as it's a bit runout on slightly crunchy rock above the last bolt. Once above the crux it's mellower climbing with ample protection, but use your long slings to avoid rope drag as it's a long way to the top. The anchor will become visible once you go through the last wide crack chimney system.

Two bolt anchor with quick links and chain links in place. Single rope rap west to the base of the Proto Pipe climb start. You can also traverse around the top of this spire to get onto the anchors for Proto Pipe.


The northeast arete of the Proto Pipe massif. Walk straight south from the base of Totem Pole to get to the start of this.


Double rack of cams, with some small ones for sure, plenty of long draws, at least a few small nuts (BD #3, I believe) like you'd take for the top of Totem Pole. 4 bolts help you through the lower, poorly protected section.


Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
Yeah David and Arjun! Looks like fun, can't wait to climb it! Apr 9, 2013
David Arthur Sampson
  5.10 PG13
David Arthur Sampson  
  5.10 PG13
Thanks Geir! This was a fun route.

All: I would recommend taking some small gear. I placed a couple of blue Aliens and a green (and red). And, the nut at the small bulge was a #3 BD as Arjun states. Apr 10, 2013
Aaron Collins
Spring, TX
Aaron Collins   Spring, TX
im stoked to see another line! Apr 12, 2013
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
This route is committing; I would suggest a PG13 rating. Small horizontal cam placements down low lead to heady climbing with some hollow sounding rock beneath the crux bulge. Apr 25, 2013

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