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JR Token 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Rich and friends, mid '80s
Page Views: 4,783
Submitted By: Max Tepfer on Aug 2, 2009
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Lenka Stafl on JR Token.
Photo by Max Tepfer.
Seasonal Raptor Closure starts Jan 15 each year; No top access - private land MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Scramble up two stair-cased broken pillars to access a beautiful hand crack that finishes with a tapering thin crux. For the 5.12 R finish, climb straight up past the chains to the rim. For gear, the guide recommends 'a strong head.'


Location 

20' left of Gold Rush. Look for the obvious broken pillars that mark the start.


Protection 

BD .75-3 with an emphasis on the .75-2 range.



Photos of JR Token Slideshow Add Photo
Alix on JR Token
Alix on JR Token
Adrian from Idaho on JR. <br />Photo by Max Tepfer.
Adrian from Idaho on JR.
Photo by Max Tepfer.
Me on JR. Photo by Brian G.
Me on JR. Photo by Brian G.
Thad warms up on JR Token. <br />Photo by Lenka.
Thad warms up on JR Token.
Photo by Lenka.
The entire route in its glory
The entire route in its glory
JR on Halloween
JR on Halloween
Comments on JR Token Add Comment
Show which comments
By blakeherrington
Dec 13, 2012

The fullest-value version of JR:

Start in a finger crack/shallow left-facing corner on the left side of the broken pillar, which is 5.10 liebacking off the ground. Climb the normal route. From the anchor, step left into a steep finger crack with face holds, which leads up into a corner and on to the 2nd anchor at the very top of the wall. This is TR-able with a 70m rope, but not a 60 unless you do all sorts of pillar-scrambling shenanigans and other scary stuff.

By Jon Rhoderick
May 19, 2013

There are two extensions to this route, the JR extension heads left out of a roof while Immortal Illusions tackles the overhang to the right, with your last pro in the horizontal.