| Route Name |
Location |
Star Rating |
Difficulty |
Date |
|
●
Bombs over Tokyo (1st pitch)
|
Yosemite NP
> …
1
> DAFF Dome
> W Face
|
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trad
|
|
Aug 9, 2026 · Lead / Flash. Super fun with a fairly short crux section (10-15 ft). Keep both feet in crack until it tightens to a layback. Crux is powering through the thin section and then getting feet on the knobs left of the crack (greasy). Gear: black totem, .4, 1, .5, 3 (roof), .75, .5, .4, .3, black totem x 2, .3
|
|
●
West Pillar Direct
|
Yosemite NP
> …
> Cathedral Range
> Eichorn Pinnacle
|
|
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
|
|
Aug 8, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. Led all pitches. Crux was P1 "5.8 flare" to me (right side in, reach deep for baggy hand jams). Bypassed the 5.9 OW by using face holds. P3 10b section has bomber finger locks into good jugs and felt pretty chill. P5 rib wrestling felt very awkward and hard with less-than-ideal pro. Didn't find a spot to place the #5. #4 is probably not necessary but was able to find spots to place it.
|
|
●
Neat and Cool
|
N America
> …
1
2
> Smoke Bluffs
> Neat & Cool
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trad
|
|
Jul 17, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. Different style and looks harder than it is (very juggy). Not PG13, protects very well. Gear: 1, .75 totem (behind flake), .75 (extended), 3 (extended), .5, 1
|
|
●
Flying Circus
|
N America
> …
1
2
> Smoke Bluffs
> Neat & Cool
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trad
|
|
Jul 17, 2026 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Foot slipped at the crux 3/4 of the way up oops
|
|
●
Laughing Crack
|
N America
> …
1
2
> Smoke Bluffs
> Wall Area
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad
|
|
Jul 17, 2026 · Lead / Flash. Fun!
|
|
●
Rainy Day Dream Away
|
N America
> …
1
2
3
> Bulletheads
> Campground Wall
|
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trad
|
|
Jul 16, 2026 · Lead / Flash. Climbed in light rain to make it a bit more spicy. Super fun crack - crux was the .5s for me. Gear: 3, 1, .4, 2, .75, .5, .5, .4, .3, .3
|
|
●
Hypertension
|
N America
> …
1
2
> Murrin Park
> Nightmare Rock
|
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Trad
|
|
Jul 15, 2026 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Fell/hung a few times transitioning into the 5s and up the overhanging 5s. Hand fist stack started feeling baggy higher up and used LH arm bar + RH gaston instead (felt more strenuous). Learn how to fist-fist stack and use a RF heel toe instead of smearing on the face next time.
|
|
●
Sentry Box
|
N America
> …
1
2
> Murrin Park
> Nightmare Rock
|
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trad
|
|
Jul 15, 2026 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Whipped a few times at the crux. Couldn't figure out the LH thumbs up lock with a taped up ring finger (felt insecure). Did some alternate beta with thumbs down locks only but this felt potentially harder.
|
|
●
Groovy Guru
|
N America
> …
1
2
> Murrin Park
> Commonwealth
|
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trad
|
|
Jul 14, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. Start underclings/jug are really bomber. Crack takes good gear from black totem to 1 (with options for smaller cams and nuts). Look for good face feet. Use the foot ledge on the left when it gets very thin.
|
|
●
Hungry, Hungry Hippos
|
N America
> …
1
2
> Murrin Park
> Commonwealth
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trad
|
|
Jul 14, 2026 · Lead / Flash. Stay right on the arete for the beginning moves. Felt pretty chill with good feet and face holds/finger locks higher up.
|
|
●
The Total StinkEye
|
N America
> …
1
2
> Murrin Park
> Commonwealth
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad
|
|
Jul 14, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. Felt very chill.
|
|
●
Majestic
|
N America
> …
1
> Sea to Sky (Hor…
> Majestic
|
|
V6 7A
Boulder
|
|
Jul 13, 2026 · Attempt. Another attempt, made it to the jug at the lip again.
|
|
●
Angel's Crest
|
N America
> …
1
2
> Stawamus Chief
> Sheriff's Badge
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad 13 pitches
|
|
Jul 12, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. Led all pitches except the Acrophobes Traverse. Linked P1+2 (slab), P4+5, P6+7. Super fun day, had the route pretty much to ourselves since the bottom pitches were slightly damp. I thought the crux was P1 (friction part was damp and I hate slab). Traversing to the finger crack corner on P6 felt a little heady on lead. Doubles .2-2 + single 3 felt sufficient. Roughly ~9 hours on route at a relaxed pace.
|
|
●
Penny Lane
|
N America
> …
1
2
> Smoke Bluffs
> Penny Lane
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trad
|
|
Jul 11, 2026 · Lead / Flash. Super classic! Crux is the corner 15-20 ft up - I just jammed it straight in with rand smears.
|
|
●
Crime of the Century
|
N America
> …
1
2
> Smoke Bluffs
> Penny Lane
|
|
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Trad
|
|
Jul 10, 2026 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Bottom move is the crux with moderate decking potential. Rest of the climb wasn't too bad - do not block finger/hand pods with cams and figure out better rest stances.
|
|
●
Arrowroot
|
N America
> …
1
2
> Stawamus Chief
> Grand Wall Base Area
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad
|
|
Jul 9, 2026 · Lead / Flash. Super fun! Takes lots of .4s near the overlap and .5s above.
|
|
●
Exasperator
|
N America
> …
1
2
> Stawamus Chief
> Grand Wall Base Area
|
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trad 2 pitches
|
|
Jul 9, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. Followed P1 clean and sent P2. Perfect finger locks into a perfect hands finish (for me). Felt decently chill with rand smears. So sick. Bring nuts next time.
|
|
●
The Spirit of Squamish
|
N America
> …
1
2
> Shannon Falls
> Shannon Falls Wall
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trad 8 pitches
|
|
Jul 7, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. Did in 4 pitches with a 70M rope. Led P1+2, P5+6. Would probably pitch out P5 and P6 next time to avoid rope drag on the traverse. Beautiful pools at the top. Super fun and classic!
|
|
●
Diedre
|
N America
> …
1
2
3
> Apron
> S Apron
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trad 6 pitches
|
|
Jul 6, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. Climbed in 3 long pitches with an 80M rope. Led P1+2, P5+6. Lots of laybacking and somewhat runout esp if linking.
|
|
●
Majestic
|
N America
> …
1
> Sea to Sky (Hor…
> Majestic
|
|
V6 7A
Boulder
|
|
Jul 6, 2026 · Attempt. 2 attempts. Got to the jug at the lip but couldn't figure out how to match without peeling off.
|
|
●
Gold Stars
|
N America
> …
1
2
> Murrin Park
> Cereal Killers
|
|
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sport
|
|
Jul 5, 2026 · TR. Hard and kind of dirty. Very reachy start. Couldn't figure out the crux section after the ledge.
|
|
●
The Burglar
|
N America
> …
1
2
> Murrin Park
> Lakeside in the Woods
|
|
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sport
|
|
Jul 5, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. Fun! Mostly juggy with a very reachy move at the end. Use high LF on crimp and lock off RH to reach it semi-statically.
|
|
●
The Reacharound
|
N America
> …
1
2
> Murrin Park
> Lakeside in the Woods
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trad
|
|
Jul 5, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. Super fun and not as hard as it looks from the ground. Extend gear on the hand crack traverse to avoid getting cams stuck. Gear: 3, .5, .3, .4, 2, 2, .75, 3
|
|
●
More Than Just A Pretty Face
|
N America
> …
1
2
> Murrin Park
> Lakeside in the Woods
|
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sport
|
|
Jul 5, 2026 · Lead / Flash. Crux is by the second bolt pulling on two slopers.
|
|
●
Scotty's Melons
|
San Francisco B…
> …
> Mickey's Beach
> Motown
|
|
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sport, TR
|
|
Jun 27, 2026 · Lead / Flash. Felt kinda soft to me but would be harder to hang the draws. Clipped 3rd off LH sloper and went straight up.
|
|
●
Shitty Fizzy Drink
|
San Francisco B…
> …
1
> Vent 5
> Juice Shop
|
14
|
|
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sport
|
|
Jun 27, 2026 · Lead / Fell/Hung. A bit chossy, stay right on arete. Accidentally ended up on The Juice.
|
|
●
Kind
|
San Francisco B…
> …
1
> Vent 5
> Vent #5
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sport
|
|
Jun 27, 2026 · TR. Warmup
|
|
●
Northwest Ridge
|
High Sierra
> 01 - Hoover Wil…
> N Peak
|
|
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Trad, Alpine
|
|
Jun 20, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. Simul with some interesting climbing around snow patches. Was going to continue to N ridge Conness but it looked snowy and we did not bring spikes/axes.
|
|
●
North Arête
|
Eastern Sierra
> …
1
> Crystal Crag
> N Arete
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
|
|
Jun 19, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. Scenic but windy af. Led everything, singles .2-2 + 8 slings were sufficient. Soloed section to the true summit and back to rap station.
|
|
●
Northeast Buttress
|
Yosemite NP
> …
1
> P. Cathedral Area
> 5. Higher Cathedral Rock
|
|
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Trad 11 pitches
|
|
May 9, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. Started climbing ~6:30 AM. Led P1/2 (soloed up to old bolts), P4/5, 100 ft of P7 (to just past roof), P8, P9. Finished P5 ~8:45 AM and P8 ~1:30 PM. Somehow took 5 hours on the last 3 pitches. Took a scary 30 ft fall building the anchor above the P7 roof due to a jug that flexed backwards. #5 was useful to have, bring more slings next time. Felt like I did multiple 5.10 moves at various points but maybe I wasn't climbing optimally.
|
|
●
Sex Porpoises
|
San Francisco B…
> …
> Mickey's Beach
> Main Rock
|
|
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sport
|
|
Apr 26, 2026 · 2 pitches. Lead / Fell/Hung. Figured out both deadpoints (slightly different second deadpoint beta) and mostly used same beta for the crux. Linked ground to 3rd bolt. Top felt harder but maybe because I was trying to link it.
|
|
●
Regular Route (Higher Cathe…
|
Yosemite NP
> …
1
> P. Cathedral Area
> 3. Higher Cathedral S…
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trad 5 pitches
|
|
Mar 30, 2026 · 4 pitches. Lead / Redpoint. Led P1, P2 (traverse variation), P3, P5 (steep hand crack variation). Felt shockingly chill and secure throughout. .75 totem protects the crux of the P2 traverse well (use a RH crimp and LH undercling) and the rest is juggy. Didn't place more than singles but doubles .4-1 could be useful. Bring more slings next time.
|
|
●
The Surprise
|
Yosemite NP
> …
1
2
> Five Open Books
> First Tier
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trad 5 pitches
|
|
Mar 29, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. Led P2+3 (linked), P4+5 (linked). P3 felt hard for 5.8 with rope drag and had lots of ring locks for me (0.5). Black totem protects "surprise" move well with a good stance to figure out the beta. I used RH side pull on top of the black totem and a LF smear.
|
|
●
Stone Groove
|
Yosemite NP
> …
1
> At. Reed's Pinn…
> Reed's Pinnacle
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad
|
|
Mar 29, 2026 · Lead / Redpoint. Forgot all my beta since it's been so many years. Not thin hands lol if my tiny hands don't fit. Milk the stem rest with the good RF knob and smeary LF. I thought the crux was pulling over the bulge on thin fingers and bad feet. Takes many .5 and .75 in the corner, .3 for bulge move, hand sizes above.
|
|
●
Positively 4th Street
|
Yosemite NP
> …
1
> D. Camp 4 Area
> 2. Lower Brother
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trad 2 pitches
|
|
Mar 28, 2026 · Lead / Flash. Led as a single pitch. Gear - 1 (backcleaned), 2 (backcleaned), .75, 4, 3, 2 (roof), 1 (optional, roof), .75, .5
|
|
●
Absolutely Free, Center
|
Yosemite NP
> …
1
> D. Camp 4 Area
> 2. Lower Brother
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trad 3 pitches
|
|
Mar 28, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. Exit move on P1 chimney felt hard. Led P2 as a 30M hand crack pitch - so classic! Layback variation for P3 was cool. Rope got stuck on rappel and had to re-ascend, be very careful when pulling.
|