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Routes in 21 - Reed's Pinnacle Area

11c Toprope Arete TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Arch OW at Bongs Away Left T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Beyond Lunacy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beyond the Fringe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bong's Away Center T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bongs Away, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Children of Light S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chingando T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Deer Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dr. Fun Time T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dream Easy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ejesta T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flatus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Independence Pinnacle, Center T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Iota, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lunatic Fringe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ol' 5.10 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Olga's Trick T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Phantom T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Porter's Pout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reed's Pinnacle Left T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Remnant, Center, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Remnant-Left Side, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Remnant-Right Side, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rocket In My Pocket T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scrunchy-Mungy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steppin' Out T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stone Fist T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stone Groove T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jim Bridwell & Galen Rowell, 1971
Page Views: 7,969 total, 59/month
Shared By: Adam on Dec 16, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Cool climb up a corner to start. The first 30 feet are the crux. Tight hands and some hard moves. After that, sustained but tons of fun. Cool rock.

Location

Right of Lunatic Fringe in a clear spot. Look for the amazing small corner.

Protection

Doubles to #2 C4 Camalots.
Michael Dom  
 
The beginning is kind of funky. Once you break through that it is mellow. Dec 12, 2016
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
 
Funny Fun! Mar 27, 2016
Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
 
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
 
I'm not the best crack climber, but I found this to be really sustained due to virtually no left feet. For my large hands, the hand jams were generally good most of the way, but where the crack was more constricted and the jams tentative, it felt super tough. Seemed like the key was to read the crack carefully and foot jam high in spots in order to skip over the tough hands portions.

I read that the "roof" portion was the crux, however again with large hands, I did not find this to be true - the narrower crack down low was harder. Above the roof, the terrain felt generally easier.

Pro is definitely bomber just about all the way, so good route on which to push your limits! Apr 28, 2013
Weston L
Summerlin, NV
  5.10b
Weston L   Summerlin, NV
  5.10b
No need to do any silly variations or anything, this thing protects very well and is a blast (not to mention quite fierce, in that classic friendly Yosemite way). Only reason not to get on it might be crowds, but we didn't encounter any on a gorgeous Sunday in early November... Nov 5, 2012
Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.10b
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.10b
Cruxes were a bit easier than Lunatic Fringe, but this route felt much more sustained and insecure on the jams.

The top anchors can be reached by a fun 5.9 variation around the corner to the right that is worth doing in its own right (I'd give it 2-3 stars). Bring pro through #4 BD C4 and be prepared for some sustained & steep jamming, with occasional surprise stems to keep things reasonably easy. There is a little loose rock that is easy to avoid, and a fun lieback on a hollow flake (1-2 #2 C4s) that transitions to a bear hug & mantle to finish.

The second 5.8 pitch above Stone Groove is a LOT harder than the 5.9 approach pitch and it is not hands (well maybe the first part is). It is a very tight & flaring squeeze chimney that takes good elbows-up chikenwinging. There is no pro except for sliding a #6 BD C4 until you reach the chockstone near the top (takes a #1 BD C4?). If you have good flexibility you can reach around and place a small cam in a dirty seam behind you to backup the #6, though it might not hold much of a fall. The #6 is barely large enough to protect as it is slid along or re-set beyond the wider parts. The crux is getting through where the chimney widens just before the chockstone. This pitch was short but burly and very worth doing! (3 stars) Bring minimal pro, as gear definitely gets in the way leading this pitch.

Rap anchors for the 5.8 P2 are old and need replacing. We added some new webbing to tie elements together and added a rappel ring. The top shares the same belay as one of the pitches of the Rorp (5.7) so this route could be TRed from this alternate approach or used as a part of a very lengthy but 5.5ish way to set up a TR on P1 of Stone Groove. Dec 19, 2011
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
Short, stout, and awesome. Oct 12, 2011
Jason Holliday
Blacksburg, VA
Jason Holliday   Blacksburg, VA
Indeed. Stone Groove is substantially harder than p2 on Central Pillar. May 13, 2011
aaron hope
Walnut Creek, CA
  5.10c
aaron hope   Walnut Creek, CA
  5.10c
Ken - In no way am I in the position to question Bridwell, but I think a lot of folks would agree that Stone Groove is harder than anything on Central Pillar of Frenzy (first 5 pitches, anyway). May 8, 2011
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
  5.10a
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
  5.10a
In the Sierra Club's mountaineering journal, Ascent, 1973, Jim Bridwell proposed letter grades for 5.10. His examples for 5.10a thin cracks were; Stone Groove, Swan Slab (P2), Sacherer Cracker, Siberian Swarm Screw, East Corner of Higher Cathedral, and Central Pillar of Frenzy (p2 & p6). Jan 31, 2011
Osprey Overhang   ...
 
The second pitch should not be forgotten. 5.8 hands in a right facing corner! If pitch one is too short, then do both pitches in one. May 30, 2010
armand rollice
rancho cucamonga
armand rollice   rancho cucamonga
VEry fierce and classic climb! Takes good gear all the way.Once through the crux the climbing is straight forward sustained all the way to the top! Done it a couple of times. Feb 26, 2008
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
A great route with excellent protection throughout. A bit too short for true "classic" status, but still really good. Aug 15, 2007
Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
Burly and historic route.

FA: Jim Bridwell & Galen Rowell, 1971. Near the cutting edge of free climbing in that era. Important to include the history of these climbs. Apr 22, 2007