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Routes in 21 - Reed's Pinnacle Area

11c Toprope Arete TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Arch OW at Bongs Away Left T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Beyond Lunacy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beyond the Fringe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bong's Away Center T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bongs Away, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Children of Light S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chingando T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Deer Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dr. Fun Time T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dream Easy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ejesta T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flatus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Independence Pinnacle, Center T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Iota, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lunatic Fringe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ol' 5.10 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Olga's Trick T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Phantom T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Porter's Pout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reed's Pinnacle Left T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Remnant, Center, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Remnant-Left Side, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Remnant-Right Side, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rocket In My Pocket T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scrunchy-Mungy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steppin' Out T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stone Fist T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stone Groove T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad
FA: Wally Reed,Herb Swedlund, 1960.
Page Views: 2,525 total, 19/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Dec 3, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Climb a squeeze chimney on the right side.

Protection

Big Bros, maybe.

Photos

Tricamus
Culver City, CA
 
Tricamus   Culver City, CA
 
This was brutally fun for a 5.7. Not quite the cool-down we were looking for, but glad we did it! Oct 11, 2017
Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.7
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.7
After the first 10-15 ft of chimneying you can place a #6 BD C4, which you can slide most of the rest of the way up the route. I left a #5 BD C4 at the entry to the squeeze, removed the #6 there and replaced it above the squeeze for more pushin'. A #4 BD C4 can be nice to protect the final moves exiting the squeeze and reaching the anchor.

Bring long slings for a good extension for setting up a TR. The same anchor works well for TRing The Remnant, Left, which is also a great climb.

Here is a video of me leading the climb:
youtube.com/watch?v=yDIh2Lw… Dec 19, 2011
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
I placed two #6 camalots on the route, but a #5 and #6 would work just the same if you don't have doubles. Any gear smaller than that is probably just going to weigh you down. Clean and fun. Jan 25, 2011
Osprey Overhang   ...
 
This is the climb I warm up on if I show up to climb other offwidths at Reed's. Its the best one pitch 5.7 offwidth/squeeze I've climbed in Yosemite. The quality of rock is outstanding.

Protect this climb with four pieces: yellow alien, #3.5 friend, #4 friend, and #5 friend.

You will be happy as you move on to the other climbs in the area if you start with this gem. It may be the first climb put up by Wally Reed at Reed's! ??? Jan 8, 2008