Type: Trad
FA: Wally Reed,Herb Swedlund, 1960.
Page Views: 2,651 total · 18/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Dec 3, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Climb a squeeze chimney on the right side.

Protection

Big Bros, maybe.

Photos

Osprey Overhang   ...
 
This is the climb I warm up on if I show up to climb other offwidths at Reed's. Its the best one pitch 5.7 offwidth/squeeze I've climbed in Yosemite. The quality of rock is outstanding.

Protect this climb with four pieces: yellow alien, #3.5 friend, #4 friend, and #5 friend.

You will be happy as you move on to the other climbs in the area if you start with this gem. It may be the first climb put up by Wally Reed at Reed's! ??? Jan 8, 2008
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
I placed two #6 camalots on the route, but a #5 and #6 would work just the same if you don't have doubles. Any gear smaller than that is probably just going to weigh you down. Clean and fun. Jan 25, 2011
Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.7
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.7
After the first 10-15 ft of chimneying you can place a #6 BD C4, which you can slide most of the rest of the way up the route. I left a #5 BD C4 at the entry to the squeeze, removed the #6 there and replaced it above the squeeze for more pushin'. A #4 BD C4 can be nice to protect the final moves exiting the squeeze and reaching the anchor.

Bring long slings for a good extension for setting up a TR. The same anchor works well for TRing The Remnant, Left, which is also a great climb.

Here is a video of me leading the climb:
youtube.com/watch?v=yDIh2Lw… Dec 19, 2011
Tricamus
Red Rock, NV
 
Tricamus   Red Rock, NV
 
This was brutally fun for a 5.7. Not quite the cool-down we were looking for, but glad we did it! Oct 11, 2017