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Routes in 21 - Reed's Pinnacle Area
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11c Toprope Arete TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Arch OW at Bongs Away Left T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Beyond Lunacy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Beyond the Fringe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bong's Away Center T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bongs Away, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Children of Light S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Chingando T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Deer Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dr. Fun Time T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dream Easy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ejesta T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Flatus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Independence Pinnacle, Center T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Iota, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Lunatic Fringe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ol' 5.10 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Olga's Trick T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Phantom T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Porter's Pout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Reed's Pinnacle Left T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Remnant, Center, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Remnant-Left Side, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Remnant-Right Side, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rocket In My Pocket T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Scrunchy-Mungy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Spring Fever T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Steppin' Out T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Stone Fist T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Stone Groove T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unnamed 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 70 ft |
| FA: | Wally Reed, Bill Henderson, 1956 |
| Page Views: | 1,028 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Bryan G on Apr 29, 2013 |
| Admins: | M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15
Details
March 1- July 15
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure pagenps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive.
Learn more about special status bird species in Yosemite National Park.
Glacier Point Apron is open to climbing, but the Park Service's website does not recommend climbing there ";due to recent and ongoing rockfall."
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure pagenps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive.
Learn more about special status bird species in Yosemite National Park.
Glacier Point Apron is open to climbing, but the Park Service's website does not recommend climbing there ";due to recent and ongoing rockfall."
Description
The regular route up the Iota is a fun chimney climb. This combined with The Deer Route and The Remnant-Right Side makes for a great circuit of spelunking adventures. The start is approached by scrambling up and around the left side of the Iota. Here you will enter into a great chimney which divides the Iota from the main wall. Crossroads is a bolted 5.13 face which can be found in this chimney.
Start with a boulder problem and mantel to get into a tunnel which leads out onto the face and the top of Chingando (this is also how you can access a TR setup for Chingando). Climb straight up the obvious chimney to the top. There's not any pro.
To get down, either rappel from slings, or walk to the back left side of the Iota and make a short steep downclimb (there should be a fixed rope with knots tied in it that you can "batman" down).
Start with a boulder problem and mantel to get into a tunnel which leads out onto the face and the top of Chingando (this is also how you can access a TR setup for Chingando). Climb straight up the obvious chimney to the top. There's not any pro.
To get down, either rappel from slings, or walk to the back left side of the Iota and make a short steep downclimb (there should be a fixed rope with knots tied in it that you can "batman" down).
- Trip Report with photos
Photos
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