Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
All Locations >
California
> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Lower Merced Ri…
> At. Reed's Pinn…
> Reed's Pinnacle
Independence Pinnacle, Center
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.7 from 10
votes
Routes in Reed's Pinnacle
|
|
11c Toprope Arete TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
589 (Per Clint Cummins Guide Book) Unknown (Per Sloan Guide Book) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Arch OW at Bongs Away Left T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Beyond Lunacy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Beyond the Fringe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Bong's Away Center T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Bongs Away, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Children of Light S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Chingando T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Crossroads S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
|
|
Deer Route, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Dr. Fun Time T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Dream Easy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Ejesta T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Flatus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Footprints S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Independence Pinnacle, Center T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Iota, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
|
|
Lunatic Fringe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Magical Mystery Tour T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Ol' 5.10 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
|
|
Olga's Trick T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Open Your Eyes T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Phantom T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
|
|
Porter's Pout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Reed's Erect T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
|
|
Reed's Pinnacle Left T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Remnant, Center, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Remnant-Left Side, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Remnant-Right Side, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Rocket In My Pocket T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Rorp, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Scrunchy-Mungy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Spring Fever T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Steppin' Out T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Stone Fist T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Stone Groove T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Stone Groove (full) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Unnamed 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Dave Hampton, Barry Bates, Matt Donohoe (July, '70) |
| Page Views: | 1,850 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Bryan G on Oct 15, 2012 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
The Center Route is a fun climb, perhaps not quite as classic as the Left Side or Steppin' Out, but close. It will test your crack technique at all sizes from thin hands to squeeze chimney and requires a bit of a hefty rack if you want to sew it up.
Pitch 1 starts just to the right of the 11c thin crack/seam "Rocket In My Pocket". For the first 30ft you have two options. A squeeze chimney on the left, or a hand crack and knobs just to the right. Neither way is difficult. This will lead to the base of a 5.7 offwidth. Struggle up this until it becomes a chimney. A tree (sometimes with ants) blocks your path at the top of the chimney. Monkey through the tree and follow easy cracks up and left to a large ledge.
Pitch 2 we did as a real rope-stretcher. Again there are a couple different ways to start. The goal is to reach the obvious arching thin-hands splitter on the face just above. A direct approach is somewhat difficult and perhaps not that well protected. I chose to climb up a corner around to the right and then downclimb an easy ramp back down to the left. I did all this without placing pro so I could flip the rope around the corner and had my second follow up the direct start.
The thin hand crack is the crux, and how cruxy it is will depend on the size of your hands. It's over quickly in any case. Follow a left facing corner until you near the roof and then traverse over to the right (try to traverse low). A hanging belay could perhaps be established below the roof if you want to reduce rope drag. Above the roof is a nice splitter that quickly widens from hands to offwidth (10a/b) and then squeeze chimney. There is a nice bolted belay at a stance out on the arete to the right, near the top of the chimney. This gives you the cleanest rappel. Otherwise continue all the way to the top of Steppin' Out (which will make it a 70m pitch if you start from the big ledge atop "pitch 1").
To descend, rappel with two ropes. It is possible to rappel Steppin' Out with one 70m if you stop at a sort of bogus anchor at a dying tree just below the roof. Make the final rappel down Rocket In My Pocket from a bolted anchor (one good bolt, one bad).
Pitch 1 starts just to the right of the 11c thin crack/seam "Rocket In My Pocket". For the first 30ft you have two options. A squeeze chimney on the left, or a hand crack and knobs just to the right. Neither way is difficult. This will lead to the base of a 5.7 offwidth. Struggle up this until it becomes a chimney. A tree (sometimes with ants) blocks your path at the top of the chimney. Monkey through the tree and follow easy cracks up and left to a large ledge.
Pitch 2 we did as a real rope-stretcher. Again there are a couple different ways to start. The goal is to reach the obvious arching thin-hands splitter on the face just above. A direct approach is somewhat difficult and perhaps not that well protected. I chose to climb up a corner around to the right and then downclimb an easy ramp back down to the left. I did all this without placing pro so I could flip the rope around the corner and had my second follow up the direct start.
The thin hand crack is the crux, and how cruxy it is will depend on the size of your hands. It's over quickly in any case. Follow a left facing corner until you near the roof and then traverse over to the right (try to traverse low). A hanging belay could perhaps be established below the roof if you want to reduce rope drag. Above the roof is a nice splitter that quickly widens from hands to offwidth (10a/b) and then squeeze chimney. There is a nice bolted belay at a stance out on the arete to the right, near the top of the chimney. This gives you the cleanest rappel. Otherwise continue all the way to the top of Steppin' Out (which will make it a 70m pitch if you start from the big ledge atop "pitch 1").
To descend, rappel with two ropes. It is possible to rappel Steppin' Out with one 70m if you stop at a sort of bogus anchor at a dying tree just below the roof. Make the final rappel down Rocket In My Pocket from a bolted anchor (one good bolt, one bad).
4 Comments