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Routes in 21 - Reed's Pinnacle Area

11c Toprope Arete TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Arch OW at Bongs Away Left T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Beyond Lunacy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beyond the Fringe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bong's Away Center T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bongs Away, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Children of Light S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chingando T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Deer Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dr. Fun Time T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dream Easy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ejesta T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flatus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Independence Pinnacle, Center T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Iota, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lunatic Fringe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ol' 5.10 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Olga's Trick T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Phantom T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Porter's Pout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reed's Pinnacle Left T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Remnant, Center, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Remnant-Left Side, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Remnant-Right Side, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rocket In My Pocket T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scrunchy-Mungy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steppin' Out T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stone Fist T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stone Groove T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 240 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Frank Sacherer, Wally Reed, Gary Colliver, 11/1962 FFA: Frank Sacherer, Dick Erb, Larry Marshik, 1964
Page Views: 2,481 total, 19/month
Shared By: dean rose on Jan 28, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Pitch 1 takes the cavernous looking back and foot chimney to a stance at some slung chockstones.
Pitch 2 follows the 5"-7" wide crack in the back of a left facing dihedral to a ledge where the tunnel thru on the Reed's regular route emerges. From here one may escape to easier ground by working right above the short hand crack, or stay left for full value and finish with a short bit of 5.9 OW to the top of Reed's Pinnacle.

Location

Route is located a short ways west of Reed's Direct route
Descend by two rappels down the east side of Reed's Pinnacle the first one is short and the second one is long requiring two ropes.

Protection

pro to 7"

Photos

Tricamus
Culver City, CA
 
Tricamus   Culver City, CA
 
Really fun route, but man I've gotta work on my wide technique. On P1, exiting the chimney early, on the left, around a bulging flake, gains a beautiful thin hands (#1 BD) crack before reentering the chimney. Has anyone else done this variation? If so, careful at the top of this crack as there are some well balanced death stones about 20-30' up the chimney. Fun, but dangerous. Oct 10, 2017
Alexey
San Jose
 
Alexey   San Jose
 
recently climbed it again.
P1 5.8 is stout and do not take any big gear you need to use on p2. Leave it for the follower.
One #5 and one #6 would be sufficient to protect crux p2.
Nothing changed for "side in" preferences- it is still much easier for me left side in Jan 2, 2014
Della
SLC, UT
 
Della   SLC, UT
 
I definitely found right side in easier on P2! I got about 15 ft up off the little ledge left side in only to slide right back down. Also, beware of a loose block about 15 ft off the belay.
Anyone know what the arching OW on the other side is? (Tunnel through to get to it.) May 31, 2012
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
Just to the left of Reed's Pinnacle is a 90 ft tall flake and is listed in the Reid guide as "10b var". This isn't an alternate start to the Left Route as the topo implies, but it does make for a fun single pitch climb. There is a short 5.10- crux in the start where you wrestle with some chock-stones in the back of a steep offwidth. After that it's an easy chimney to the top of the pinnacle. The only gear you need is a #6 camalot to protect the start and then some hand and thin hand pieces to build a gear anchor at the top. Making your own anchor to bring up the second is much easier than trying to belay off the rap slings/ropes. Jan 25, 2011
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
The p2 OW was much easier for me right side in. The hard part is only a few feet until you can reach out left and palm off of a large feature.

The final "5.9" OW at the end of the direct finish was the crux of the whole route for me. Very awkward irregular pod thing that I just couldn't figure out how to climb gracefully. And the whole time I was worried I was going knock my #6 out of place with all my flailing and deck on the ledge just below. Jan 25, 2011
Nice to know what you can leave on the ground, Alexey- thanks. Apr 4, 2010
Alexey
San Jose
 
Alexey   San Jose
 
p1. long about 120 ft. mostly small and medium gear , two pitons. chimney all the way, deeper is more secure, but harder.
p2. about 80 feet
lower and medium ow is relatively easy and protected with small gear one bolt and one piton. Upper ow is overhanging and hard and protected with
#6 friends and #5 cam C4. If you climb left side in [easier] you'll find inside ow crux small crack/ edges/side-pull -which help tremendously

gear I used single from green alien to #5 cam C4. Two #6 friends Mar 29, 2010
Alexey
San Jose
 
Alexey   San Jose
 
climbing left-side in is probably easier for second pitch Jan 30, 2007