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> Reed's Pinnacle
Olga's Trick
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3 from 8
votes
Routes in Reed's Pinnacle
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11c Toprope Arete TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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589 (Per Clint Cummins Guide Book) Unknown (Per Sloan Guide Book) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Arch OW at Bongs Away Left T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Beyond Lunacy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Beyond the Fringe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bong's Away Center T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bongs Away, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Children of Light S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Chingando T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crossroads S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Deer Route, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dr. Fun Time T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dream Easy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ejesta T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Flatus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Footprints S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Independence Pinnacle, Center T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Iota, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Lunatic Fringe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Magical Mystery Tour T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ol' 5.10 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Olga's Trick T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Open Your Eyes T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Phantom T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Porter's Pout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Reed's Erect T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Reed's Pinnacle Left T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Remnant, Center, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Remnant-Left Side, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Remnant-Right Side, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rocket In My Pocket T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rorp, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Scrunchy-Mungy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Spring Fever T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Steppin' Out T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Stone Fist T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Stone Groove T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stone Groove (full) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unnamed 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
| FA: | Rik Rieder, Mike Breidenbach and Drone Stephens (1972) |
| Page Views: | 1,926 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Bryan G on Jan 15, 2012 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
This is kind of an obscure route that is totally worth doing. It's up and left of the Iota and a bit of a pain to get to. If it were in a more visible location it would probably get climbed all the time.
The guidebook shows a 5.9 pitch starting just left of the Iota which leads directly to the base of the main crack. I've not done this approach pitch and it's probably not worth it. To reach the base of the real climbing, scramble up and left of the Iota as you would do to access the big chimney behind it (and the start of the original Iota route, a great 5.4 caving adventure). Before you reach the chimney behind the Iota, you will see a nice looking crack up a left-facing corner. This is Olga's Trick.
The climb starts up a somewhat dirty chimney and then turns a bulge into the excellent corner. The crack varies from hands to fingers and eats up gear. I thought the crux was a thin section about half way up where you crimp some sidepulls out on the face for a move or two before getting more fingerlocks. The guidebook puts the crux at the steep thin hands section at the end just before turning the roof. Above, claw your way up some munge-filled grooves to the top of the cliff.
The rap tree depicted in the topo has since died, fallen over, and is now perched somewhat precariously near the edge of the cliff. Someone seems to have improvised a solution by cutting off a length of their rope to tie off and extend another tree about 25 ft back from the edge of the cliff. This is backed up by a stopper behind a flake. Rappel from this anchor with two ropes to reach the ground. It is also possible to make two rappels with one rope, stopping at the anchor for Danger Will Robinson (10d). This is a cruddy 2 bolt anchor (backed up by a nut I added) just below a roof.
The guidebook shows a 5.9 pitch starting just left of the Iota which leads directly to the base of the main crack. I've not done this approach pitch and it's probably not worth it. To reach the base of the real climbing, scramble up and left of the Iota as you would do to access the big chimney behind it (and the start of the original Iota route, a great 5.4 caving adventure). Before you reach the chimney behind the Iota, you will see a nice looking crack up a left-facing corner. This is Olga's Trick.
The climb starts up a somewhat dirty chimney and then turns a bulge into the excellent corner. The crack varies from hands to fingers and eats up gear. I thought the crux was a thin section about half way up where you crimp some sidepulls out on the face for a move or two before getting more fingerlocks. The guidebook puts the crux at the steep thin hands section at the end just before turning the roof. Above, claw your way up some munge-filled grooves to the top of the cliff.
The rap tree depicted in the topo has since died, fallen over, and is now perched somewhat precariously near the edge of the cliff. Someone seems to have improvised a solution by cutting off a length of their rope to tie off and extend another tree about 25 ft back from the edge of the cliff. This is backed up by a stopper behind a flake. Rappel from this anchor with two ropes to reach the ground. It is also possible to make two rappels with one rope, stopping at the anchor for Danger Will Robinson (10d). This is a cruddy 2 bolt anchor (backed up by a nut I added) just below a roof.
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