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Routes in 21 - Reed's Pinnacle Area

11c Toprope Arete TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Arch OW at Bongs Away Left T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Beyond Lunacy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beyond the Fringe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bong's Away Center T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bongs Away, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Children of Light S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chingando T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Deer Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dr. Fun Time T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dream Easy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ejesta T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flatus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Independence Pinnacle, Center T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Iota, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lunatic Fringe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ol' 5.10 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Olga's Trick T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Phantom T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Porter's Pout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reed's Pinnacle Left T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Remnant, Center, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Remnant-Left Side, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Remnant-Right Side, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rocket In My Pocket T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scrunchy-Mungy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steppin' Out T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stone Fist T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stone Groove T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Jim Bridwell, Mark Klemens 1970
Page Views: 1,946 total, 20/month
Shared By: Alexey on Nov 30, 2009
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

P1 : Climb to the base of the flared chimney via not well defined corner/spliter. In upper part of this pitch there some hard, tricky 5.9 moves in vegitated crack, but you can protect them well. 70 ft. mostly small medium gear. Belay at the small convinient ledge on the left.
P2 : Start as the fist crack, and then widen to easy chimney (~5.7) for about 25 feet. The crux is short section where chimney narrows to short OW. Transition [turning the lip of small roof] from this OW to fist crack is the crux. You can protect the crux by #6 or #5 friends in ow section and #4 friends is best in the fist crack. After the roof/overhang negotiated - you still have about 50 feet of interesting varied climbing. 5.10b/ ~120 feet . Belay at the tree
P3 : From the tree you can climb 5.9 chimney ( left root) where #6 friend is too small for protection - you need bigger gear like 8-10".
Other option -you can climb third pitch of Center Route, by traversing 15 feet right from the tree to splitter crack 5.10a . This crack started as thin hands and finished 8" OW. Climb any of those variations to the top of Steppin' Out and rappel with one 70m rope ( 4 rappels)

Location

The second pitch flare is well seen from below just after you pass Stone Grove.

Protection

Double rack from green alien to #4 friend, and singe #4, #5 #6 CamelotC4,
rafael
Berkeley, CA
 
rafael   Berkeley, CA
 
the first pitch gear is not great in spots, its mostly stuffed between a flexing rail thing and the main crack. Also there is a fair amount of munge and leaves, and a bit of crumbly rock/ball bearings. overall a crap pitch.
Jeff, in the comment above really captures the essence of the climb. Oct 2, 2017
Three stars for the second pitch only. Did not do the 3rd but the 3rd pitch of the Center Route is a high quality, breathtaking pitch.

I agree with Bryan, I think the first pitch is the deal killer on this route. Seeing a star next to this route in the Reed guide, folks decide to wander past Stone Grove and check it out. The second pitch instantly catches the eye and the intimidation begins. After staring at this amazing looking pitch the eye follows the line downwards to the first pitch. The book comes out as one wonders where this route begins. At this point, most folks walk away. If you can look past the chossy nature of this first pitch, which as it turns out is not so bad, you will be rewarded with a very high quality second pitch. And as stated above, the third pitch of the Center Route is also very worthy.

I did it with 2 #3 C4s and 1 3.5 Camalot. Seems like a #4 C4 would be too big. A couple more 3s would have been nice. I also linked p1 and 2 which I do not recommend.

Not sure if I agree on the Henley Quits comparison, I found the crux move on Independent Left to be much stouter from my memory but it has been years.

Also was not excited about the ant infested, hollowed out nature of the oak tree anchor on top of p2, very questionable. Apr 29, 2012
Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
We did the first two of IP, Left and finished on the beautiful splitter of IP, Center.

2nd pitch was killer, and Henley Quits seems like a good comparison in terms of burl. But this one has tons of perfect hands after the fist section, about 50 feet of good jamming to the tree anchor, and Henley doesn't have that.

FWIW, I found the old BD 3.5 cams to be of more use on p2 than the new BD #4. Jan 20, 2012
I got to the base of the climb and simply was not sure where to start or whether I was at the right location. Hopefully the posted picture of P1 will help a little bit for next time.
Jun 13, 2011
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
This climb would probably get done all the time if the first pitch weren't so ugly. The second pitch is excellent and not too hard unless you have really small hands. I found the 10b fists on Henley Quits to be harder. Pitch 3 is also pretty good. A #6 Camalot is way tipped out the entire way, and doesn't even fit in some sections. Big Bro's or a larger cam would be useful here if you like having solid pro. Luckily this pitch is also one of the easiest 5.9 OW's you'll ever climb in the Valley. It's low angle, secure, and more of a squeeze chimney for most people. Good footwork (heel-toe camming and/or foot stacking) will get you up it without much effort. Apr 18, 2011