Mountain Project Logo

Routes in 21 - Reed's Pinnacle Area

11c Toprope Arete TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Arch OW at Bongs Away Left T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Beyond Lunacy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beyond the Fringe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bong's Away Center T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bongs Away, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Children of Light S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chingando T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Deer Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dr. Fun Time T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dream Easy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ejesta T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flatus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Independence Pinnacle, Center T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Iota, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lunatic Fringe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ol' 5.10 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Olga's Trick T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Phantom T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Porter's Pout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reed's Pinnacle Left T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Remnant, Center, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Remnant-Left Side, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Remnant-Right Side, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rocket In My Pocket T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scrunchy-Mungy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steppin' Out T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stone Fist T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stone Groove T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 210 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Charlie Porter, Bob Ashworth, Jeff Stubbs, January 1974
Page Views: 4,321 total, 33/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Jan 29, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


85 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

First pitch takes a rather uninspiring line straight up some broken rock, mostly easy with a move or two of 5.7. Belay in a alcove/stance. The second pitch is fantastic, a 120' double handcrack, then a really airy traverse to the right on positive hands with undercut feet.

Location

Ejesta is found by hiking east from reed's direct, past lunatic fringe and past stone groove. If you get to a huge corner alcove, you've gone just a little too far.

Protection

standard rack, to 3". I have heard you can do the route in 1 pitch with a 70m, but havent tried it. I think you would still need 2 ropes to rappel.
anthony.
Mountain View, CA
anthony.   Mountain View, CA
It is now possible to rap down safely with two raps using one 60m rope via the anchor of Dr Fun Time (bolted by Eric Gabel and Linda Jarit in 2011). Swing hard left to reach the bolts. Mar 21, 2016
Don't forget to look down during the traverse! There's a lot of air down there! Feb 13, 2015
Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
  5.8+
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
  5.8+
I'll assume that the 2.5 star average here refers more to the so-so first pitch than the route as a whole, because I found P2 to be classic with interesting double-crack route reading and that famous, somewhat blind traverse right to finish the route.

I concur with the earlier comments that two #3s and #4s (and even maybe one #5) would be nice if you want to really sew up P2. I had just one #3 and #4, and found it to be rather run-out (though solid for big feet and hands). Ended up walking up the #4 once during the last 20% of the pitch to protect it better. Apr 28, 2013
Cimbing Ivy
bay area, CA
Cimbing Ivy   bay area, CA
fantastic good fun!

P1 is blocky but not chossy - very enjoyable. clean beautiful rock on P2. the traverse is super positive and easy to protect with extensions - airy good fun for both leader and second :)

we rapped with a single full/long 70m to climber right towards uphill side of the crag - with rope stretch all the way to the ground with not an inch to spare. Mar 4, 2013
Osprey Overhang   ...
 
FA: Charlie Porter, Bob Ashworth, Jeff Stubbs, 1/1974 Jan 7, 2012
Roger Suen
Los Angeles, CA
Roger Suen   Los Angeles, CA
2nd pitch right before it starts traversing, there is a mini fridge sized block that is gonna come down. Be careful not to touch it, maybe a removal mission is in order. 60 m links the two pitches without an inch to spare (can't even make your anchor w/ the rope) but it works. Dec 29, 2011
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
Worth doing once. Oct 12, 2011
Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.8
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.8
There is a 'fixed' BD #4 in the wide section as of January 2011. That part is pretty easy if you know how to bridge your feet - you can just walk up it and use your hands to steady yourself. Jan 18, 2011
Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
We did it in one pitch with double ropes, rope drag wasn't too bad - fun route! Apr 13, 2010
Osprey Overhang   ...
 
Do the route with a 70m rope. This just makes the rappel to the ground easier and faster. Also, after rappelling, you should top rope Porter's Pout 5.10. This is the broken handcrack you see while on rappel and shares the same chains as Ejesta. Nov 30, 2009
jpvandever
San Francisco, CA
  5.8
jpvandever   San Francisco, CA
  5.8
The belay at the top of P1 is blocky and loose. The left crack is formed by sketchy stacked blocks supported by a crumbling base. Set anchor in right crack with #2 and #3 BD camalots (or larger). May 5, 2008
TinCrow
Ca
 
TinCrow   Ca
 
First pitch has loose stones at the belay, be careful. Really great second pitch, widened up to #5 camalot. We did the rap with one 70' that left us on a chossy ledge with an easy move to the ground. May 5, 2008
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
At least one 4" piece is helpful for the upper portion of the second pitch. Great route! Aug 15, 2007