Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Barry Bates and Bev Johnson 1971
Page Views: 16,531 total · 110/month
Shared By: Nate Weitzel on Oct 8, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details


My favorite line on this wall. Lunatic is a varied climb that has many different cruxes, so depending on your strengths you will likely find a different crux than your partner. Fantastic rock that demands finger locks, liebacking, thin hands and some face moves. Well protected throughout.


Hike right from Reeds Direct along the base for 100 yards or so. Climb a 5.6 section for 20-30 feet to gain the thin hands first crux of this route.


Standard rack, consider double set of cams from fingers to large hand sizes. Double Rope rappel.
Oakland, CA
Sirius   Oakland, CA
One of the best single pitches anywhere. Worth many repeats.

Edit to add: this is a very good climb to push your limits on, as the protection is great throughout. Also, it begins with a moderate section, affords several rests, and is steep so that any fall in the crux sections should be clean and airy.

Edit: Definitely DO the Eric Gable extension, Beyond Lunacy. 7 or so more pitches to the top. Beautiful route, excellent climbing all the way up, fun adventure hidden in plain sight of the Reeds pullout. The first pitch off of Lunatic is a bit of a gatekeeper maybe, but not at all bad, just keep the head screwed on tight and you're good. Apr 22, 2007
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
A candidate for the best single pitch for the grade in the Valley! Absolutely classic! Aug 16, 2007
San Diego, CA
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
If this is at your limit consider triples on hand sized pieces. It's long and sustained in the upper portion. May 13, 2008
Rob Dillon  
80m rope will just barely reach to TR. Apr 18, 2009
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
If you don't have hand sized pieces left for the pods at the top, the pods pinch down in between, allowing great stoppers and small cams. May 18, 2009
Osprey Overhang   ...
Do this climb with one 70m rope by rappelling to the bushy ledge on the right side. Pull your rope and let it fall to the ground, then exit the ledge to the right and walk back around to the start. Nov 30, 2009
chuck claude
Flagstaff, Az
chuck claude   Flagstaff, Az
Its a decent to good climb but IMHO there are much better climbs and pitches in the Valley (ie: the Rostrum being one of them and most of the stuff at the Cookie being as good). Having said that it is a very good climb to sink your jams into Jan 14, 2010
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Wow, what a pitch. The opening section of tight hands definitely delivers the pump. I placed a red C3 (up top), 2x yellow aliens (up top too), a couple medium to big nuts (the one at the bottom mentioned in the Super Topo is bomber), and otherwise pretty much #0.5 to #3.5 camalot fest. It'll take as many of all those as you want to throw at it - the meat being green camalots to #2 camalots. Definitely a spot or two for #3s as well. I had to work to get the #3.5 in the wide bit... it had to go deep to fit. I placed it primarily to save my #1s. Apr 28, 2014
Redondo Beach, CA
pkeds   Redondo Beach, CA
one of the best single pitches of climbing ive done. varied and sustained! Dec 15, 2015
Yes, yes and yes! Dec 15, 2015
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
Had my Crazy Eye on this one for a while! Well worth the wait....crazy fun!! Ideal for lapping on a slow day, great ringlock practice down low and fingers/hands high. Mar 27, 2016
Jordan Cannon
Bishop, CA
Jordan Cannon   Bishop, CA
Classic! My favorite route on the wall. You can set up a TR and run laps with an 80m rope, but if you're rappelling with a 70m, rap down to the ledge 40 ft up and then scramble over to a tree on the right and rap again to the base. Great practice for thin hands and ring locks, depending on your hand size. Apr 3, 2016
Michael Dom  
It is a long route. Don't give up in the last ten feet, it looks tempting to break left, ignore it. Dec 12, 2016
Robert Shortt
San Francisco, CA
Robert Shortt   San Francisco, CA
Six stars out of four. Feb 12, 2018
Dan Arters
Solon, OH
Dan Arters   Solon, OH
Hey, I got hurt lowering off this route on 5/7/18 (always tie a stopper knot) and left a couple cams up there. If anybody has cleaned them, I would really appreciate if you could mail them back to me. I will pay for postage and a bit extra for your help. Just dm me and lll send you an address and get your venmo/PayPal.
Also, I apologize for the blood all over the belay boulder for anyone who climbs it in the near future May 8, 2018
Steph Abegg
Bellingham, WA
Steph Abegg   Bellingham, WA
Descent beta: You can rappel with a single 70 if you stop at a tree on the ledge to climber's right of the route. Jun 20, 2018