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Routes in 21 - Reed's Pinnacle Area

11c Toprope Arete TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Arch OW at Bongs Away Left T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Beyond Lunacy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beyond the Fringe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bong's Away Center T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bongs Away, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Children of Light S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chingando T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Deer Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dr. Fun Time T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dream Easy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ejesta T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flatus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Independence Pinnacle, Center T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Iota, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lunatic Fringe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ol' 5.10 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Olga's Trick T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Phantom T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Porter's Pout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reed's Pinnacle Left T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Remnant, Center, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Remnant-Left Side, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Remnant-Right Side, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rocket In My Pocket T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scrunchy-Mungy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steppin' Out T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stone Fist T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stone Groove T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 900 ft, 7 pitches
FA: 2008: Eric Gabel, Linda Jarit, Kevin Willow, FFA 2009 Chad Suchoski, Mike Cane
Page Views: 1,888 total, 39/month
Shared By: SirTobyThe3rd on Dec 17, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

A fun adventure to the top of Reed’s. Good climb to do during Fall and Winter months. If it has not rained or snowed for over a week, there is a good chance the route will be easily climbable. Since it is only seven pitches, it does not require an alpine start. The protection is adequate and quality of climbing is really good. The 11c crux could be easily aided with a few tiny cams. A nice addition to the area.

Pitch 1: 150 ft 5.10c: The super classic Lunatic Fringe. Climb a right leaning hand-crack for about 25 feet and continue up to double cracks. Do a reachy transition from left to right (crux for many) and continue up. It varies from thin to perfect hands and after a wide pod becomes thin for a few moves. Fortunately the thin sections are not very sustained and there are good stances to place gear. As the crack narrows down make a step left to a jug.

Pitch 2: 80 ft 5.10c: From a bolted belay step left into a thin crack and stem/jam through most difficulties. Thank yourself for bringing a 0 and 00 C3 piece, or something else that fits. Delicate moves take you to a flexing “thank god” jug. Few more cruxy moves bring you to easier ground. This pitch is pretty fun and delicate. Easier face climbing take you up and left, past a tree, to another bolted belay.

Pitch 3: 160 ft 5.9: Step left and around a corner to a right leaning handcrack in a corner. It is not long and you pass a big grassy ledge before reaching another system. Great crack in a corner on the left, and another good looking one just to the right. I took the left crack and loved it. Continue past another ledge and up a short chimney with a crack in the back.

Pitch 4: 170 ft 5.10c: Make a few committing moves to the top of a good knob and clip a first bolt. Continue up clipping a few more till holds disappear for a few moves (crux). Friction up and left to an arête and pass a roof. I traversed the roof from left to right. Continue up easier knobs and do a few more difficult moves till you reach the belay (bolted).

Pitch 5: 180ft 5.10b: From the belay step right and up an arete. You can either sling the knobs for pro or place gear in a right facing corner around. Sling a knob above the roof and figure out the sequence to the top of this knob (crux). Don't knock your sling off the knob in the process, like I did. Easier climbing takes you past a few more knobs and a piton. Clip another bolt before an easier roof and climb pretty much straight up a sea of knobs to another bolted belay.

Pitch 6: 130 ft 5.11c: Climb up from the belay towards a left leaning underling. Traverse under it and get into a chimney. Stem out of the flare to pass a roof into a traversing edge. Crank through this not so juggy section and onto a good ledge. Shake out and prepare yourself for first knuckle jamming, stemming and lie backing up a left facing corner (crux). FFA was done with it wet and it was rated 5.11c. Seemed like a 5.11b when dry. Thin gear is really nice to have here. After you are done with the crux continue left under an overhang. Watch your feet and don't slip on the munge.

Pitch 7: 90 ft 510.d/5.11a. From the belay climb over an overhang and establish yourself on a knob from which you can clip the first bolt. Mantle to the top of the bolt and clip another one. Last cruxy move will put you above the difficulties. Make a small traverse left to a pod and mantle up to easy slab. Don't fall here and hike up to a tree with rap slings. If you intend on going to the top bring some more webbing to back up the slings that by now been roughed up by the animals. Or at least back up the anchor for the first (hopefully heavier) person to rappel. Enjoy the views from the top of Reed's and get down in time to buy some beer, or prune juice.

DESCENT: Two 60 M ropes. Rappell the route. Webbing on top of the formation might be damaged by animals, so bringing some extra might be nice.

Location

Whole two minutes above the parking for Reed's.

Protection

Standard rack up to BD #2. 0 and 00 C3s are useful. Basically bring a few tiny cams.

Photos

Mark Straub
Berkeley, CA
 
Mark Straub   Berkeley, CA
 
Great extension to Lunatic Fringe! Varied climbing and interesting climbing throughout the first five pitches. The first 5 pitches are good, well-protected climbing that make for a great 5.10 multipitch outing.

We found the last 2 pitches to be good but not great- they had short sections of fun, challenging climbing broken up by dirt clod stemming and lichen smearing. More traffic would probably clean these up. Hopefully this route becomes more popular, it deserves to! Oct 17, 2017
Eric Gabel  
 
I did it the same way Sirius, on the first accent. Strait up to the bolt. We cleaned that left side arête when we were up there a year later and now people are doing it that way too. I haven't tried it yet.

- Eric Gabel Jun 22, 2014
Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
Pitch 4: 170 ft 5.10c: Make a few committing moves to the top of a good knob and clip a first bolt. Continue up clipping a few more till holds disappear for a few moves (crux). Friction up and left to an arête and pass a roof. I traversed the roof from left to right. Continue up easier knobs and do a few more difficult moves till you reach the belay (bolted).

We just went more or less straight up from the second or third bolt, following the bolted line closely, which doesn't bring you to the arete proper but leads you through some great moves.

Instead of traversing the roof from left to right, you come straight to its center through a cruxy, steep friction sequence that ends with a hold-your-breath reach for a glory jug. Small cams can be placed under the rooflet here, and then more jugs to a left-leaning finger crack and eventually more juggy plates. Best part of the pitch! Mar 27, 2014