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Routes in 21 - Reed's Pinnacle Area

11c Toprope Arete TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Arch OW at Bongs Away Left T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Beyond Lunacy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beyond the Fringe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bong's Away Center T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bongs Away, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Children of Light S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chingando T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Deer Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dr. Fun Time T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dream Easy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ejesta T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flatus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Independence Pinnacle, Center T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Iota, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lunatic Fringe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ol' 5.10 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Olga's Trick T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Phantom T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Porter's Pout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reed's Pinnacle Left T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Remnant, Center, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Remnant-Left Side, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Remnant-Right Side, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rocket In My Pocket T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scrunchy-Mungy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steppin' Out T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stone Fist T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stone Groove T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad
FA: Pat Ament, Larry Dalke, 10/1967. FFA: Royal Robbins, Loyd Price, 1968.
Page Views: 964 total, 7/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Dec 3, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Between The Iota and Reed's Pinnacle is a 100' Exfoliation slab, this is The Remnant.
Jamming and liebacking lead up the left side.

Protection

Pro to 3".

Photos

- No Photos -
Mark P Thomas
Draper
 
Mark P Thomas   Draper
 
Would be worth 3 stars if the route & base weren't so dirty. Very physical route, which can either be mostly liebacked or also incorporate some OW technique (e.g. I cammed my right leg in to assist with the lower liebacking after turning the first roof).

Unless perhaps you can start the route as squeeze chimney, you have to climb a ways on pretty burly terrain before you could even get a #6 4CU in, though a crash pad might be helpful for the start. Dec 19, 2011
Alexey
San Jose
 
Alexey   San Jose
 
It is very good and hard climb. Reid book did not give it any stars, but it should. Started with unique body position - almost horizontal - to transition from tight flare to body size chimney. Than fist size roof - the crux. How hard- depends from your fist size.
And than thin crack to the anchors.
Can be well protected with single rack from small cam to #6 Dec 7, 2009