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Routes in 21 - Reed's Pinnacle Area

11c Toprope Arete TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Arch OW at Bongs Away Left T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Beyond Lunacy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beyond the Fringe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bong's Away Center T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bongs Away, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Children of Light S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chingando T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Deer Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dr. Fun Time T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dream Easy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ejesta T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flatus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Independence Pinnacle, Center T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Iota, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lunatic Fringe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ol' 5.10 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Olga's Trick T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Phantom T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Porter's Pout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reed's Pinnacle Left T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Remnant, Center, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Remnant-Left Side, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Remnant-Right Side, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rocket In My Pocket T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scrunchy-Mungy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steppin' Out T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stone Fist T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stone Groove T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad
FA: Chuck Pratt, June 1965
Page Views: 7,901 total, 58/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Sep 27, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

On the far left of Reed's Pinnacle Area is a Huge, detached flake, split by a left leaning crack. This huge flake is known as The Iota. The crack is "Chingando".

The Reed guide description says something like "part of the hardman ow training circuit".

In the Sierra Club's mountaineering journal, Ascent, 1973, Jim Bridwell proposed adding letter grades to YDS 5.10's. He gave lots of examples for 5.10a offwidths; Chingando, Girl Next Door, Reed Pinnacle Left, Crack of Despair, Crack of Doom, The Cookie Left, Penny Nickel Arete...

Location

Walk uphill from below the climb.
Rappel off.

Protection

Camalots in order of the climb: #2, #0.75 , #1, #2, #3, 2#4C4 2#5C4, #6C4, #3 BigBro
Aaron Formella
Atascadero, CA
 
Aaron Formella   Atascadero, CA
 
A 70 m rope works for toproping.

For big cams I used 3 x #4, 2 x #5, 2 x #6, and 1 Valley Giant # 9. I felt like this was just adequate, but I am horrible at offwidth. I used a tag line at the suggestion of my partner and was thankful for it to prevent carrying all the heavy cams from the start. There are some descent places to pull up the tagline en route. Toward the top, the crack gets too big for a 6, but the VG 9 works great and you can walk it along. It then gets too big for the 9 for a short distance then narrows down again to once again accept the 9. So, you have to either leave it and make a run to the anchor or remove the 9 and do a few moves well above the 6 then replace the 9. Without the VG 9 or a big bro, it's a pretty serious run to the anchor. My torso was large enough to prevent ever getting into a secure squeeze position. There is a piton to clip at the end of the main crack before the small traverse left to the anchor. This also can work as a directional for toproping. May 26, 2017
A 60m rope will not work for TRing this route from the two bolt anchor. I was lowered to about 20 feet from the ground when the rope ran out. Since the route only diagonals slightly, It seemed unlikely that we would have been able to rappel from the bolts to the ledge with a 60 as Anthony suggests, so we climbed up and over and scrambled down around the back. A 70 SHOULD work for TRing and rapping. Apr 5, 2016
anthony.
Mountain View, CA
 
anthony.   Mountain View, CA
 
Safe to rap from the two-bolt anchor to the big ledge below the climb with a 60m rope. Sep 29, 2015
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
 
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
 
FIRST ASCENT: Chuck Pratt, June, 1965. In 1961, Mr. Pratt also led Crack of Doom, Yosemite's first 5.10. (Steve Roper, Climber's Guide to Yosemite Valley, 1971)

In the Sierra Club's mountaineering journal, Ascent, 1973, Jim Bridwell proposed adding letter grades to YDS 5.10's. He gave lots of examples for 5.10a offwidths; Chingando, Girl Next Door, Reed Pinnacle Left, Crack of Despair, Crack of Doom, The Cookie Left, Penny Nickel Arete... Jan 31, 2011
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
Like many wide cracks, this climb doesn't get the attention it deserves. It's every bit as good as Reed's Direct or Lunatic Fringe. Bring doubles on the 4's and 5's and at least one 6 (plus some hand size stuff for the start) and you should be good to go. You shouldn't need a big bro unless you're a really big dude and can't fit in the chimney up there. Nov 20, 2010
Osprey Overhang   ...
 
Defiantly on the training circuit. One of the easier 5.10 offwidths though. There are a lot of knobs and edges on this one so you don't actually have to use only offwidth technique as much as some other .10a's of this size.

I think Chuck was just fucking around on this one, as the name implies. Mar 5, 2010
Yeah, pro to 3". And shirts are aid. As are high-tops and long pants. Sure thing, Blitzo! Mar 6, 2009
armand rollice
rancho cucamonga
armand rollice   rancho cucamonga
Chingando gets right into business as soon as your feet leave the ground. I climbed it one very warm August afternoon in the sun. let's just say, crazy or stupid? I had fun climbing the route. And would do it again. Hardman offwidth training circuit! Lives up to that. I did use a #6 and walked it up until I couldn't anymore. Then I used a #4(blu) bigbro that i bought in the valley just for this climb. I'm glad I had the big bro. Armando Feb 26, 2008
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
Dammit Blitzo! Stop "gurgling" and put in some good info with your scant ass route descriptions. Pro to 3"???? HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!!!!!111 Dec 10, 2007
Alexey
San Jose
Alexey   San Jose
Gear beta in above route description is wrong.

Camalots in order of the climb: #2, #0.75 , #1, #2, #3, 2#4C4 2#5C4, #6C4, #3 BigBro Dec 10, 2007
Aaron S
 
Aaron S  
 
The Reed guide description says something like "part of the hardman ow training circuit". Yea... pay attention to that part. Apr 26, 2007