[Hide Comment] The Reed guide description says something like "part of the hardman ow training circuit". Yea... pay attention to that part. Apr 26, 2007

[Hide Comment] Gear beta in above route description is wrong.

Camalots in order of the climb: #2, #0.75 , #1, #2, #3, 2#4C4 2#5C4, #6C4, #3 BigBro Dec 10, 2007

[Hide Comment] Dammit Blitzo! Stop "gurgling" and put in some good info with your scant ass route descriptions. Pro to 3"???? HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!!!!!111 Dec 10, 2007

[Hide Comment] Chingando gets right into business as soon as your feet leave the ground. I climbed it one very warm August afternoon in the sun. let's just say, crazy or stupid? I had fun climbing the route. And would do it again. Hardman offwidth training circuit! Lives up to that. I did use a #6 and walked it up until I couldn't anymore. Then I used a #4(blu) bigbro that i bought in the valley just for this climb. I'm glad I had the big bro. Armando Feb 26, 2008

[Hide Comment] Yeah, pro to 3". And shirts are aid. As are high-tops and long pants. Sure thing, Blitzo! Mar 6, 2009

[Hide Comment] Defiantly on the training circuit. One of the easier 5.10 offwidths though. There are a lot of knobs and edges on this one so you don't actually have to use only offwidth technique as much as some other .10a's of this size.

I think Chuck was just fucking around on this one, as the name implies. Mar 5, 2010

[Hide Comment] Like many wide cracks, this climb doesn't get the attention it deserves. It's every bit as good as Reed's Direct or Lunatic Fringe. Bring doubles on the 4's and 5's and at least one 6 (plus some hand size stuff for the start) and you should be good to go. You shouldn't need a big bro unless you're a really big dude and can't fit in the chimney up there. Nov 20, 2010

[Hide Comment] FIRST ASCENT: Chuck Pratt, June, 1965. In 1961, Mr. Pratt also led Crack of Doom, Yosemite's first 5.10. (Steve Roper, Climber's Guide to Yosemite Valley, 1971)

In the Sierra Club's mountaineering journal, Ascent, 1973, Jim Bridwell proposed adding letter grades to YDS 5.10's. He gave lots of examples for 5.10a offwidths; Chingando, Girl Next Door, Reed Pinnacle Left, Crack of Despair, Crack of Doom, The Cookie Left, Penny Nickel Arete... Jan 31, 2011

[Hide Comment] A 60m rope will not work for TRing this route from the two bolt anchor. I was lowered to about 20 feet from the ground when the rope ran out. Since the route only diagonals slightly, It seemed unlikely that we would have been able to rappel from the bolts to the ledge with a 60 as Anthony suggests, so we climbed up and over and scrambled down around the back. A 70 SHOULD work for TRing and rapping. Apr 5, 2016

[Hide Comment] A 70 m rope works for toproping.

For big cams I used 3 x #4, 2 x #5, 2 x #6, and 1 Valley Giant # 9. I felt like this was just adequate, but I am horrible at offwidth. I used a tag line at the suggestion of my partner and was thankful for it to prevent carrying all the heavy cams from the start. There are some descent places to pull up the tagline en route. Toward the top, the crack gets too big for a 6, but the VG 9 works great and you can walk it along. It then gets too big for the 9 for a short distance then narrows down again to once again accept the 9. So, you have to either leave it and make a run to the anchor or remove the 9 and do a few moves well above the 6 then replace the 9. Without the VG 9 or a big bro, it's a pretty serious run to the anchor. My torso was large enough to prevent ever getting into a secure squeeze position. There is a piton to clip at the end of the main crack before the small traverse left to the anchor. This also can work as a directional for toproping. May 26, 2017

[Hide Comment] Definitely no need for the VG or bro: 2x6"s is more than sufficient. Push one until the chimney gets too big, then place the second ~8ft higher when it narrows. The climbing up there is super secure too. Feb 19, 2020

[Hide Comment] Bummer. Seems all the sites that had extended versions of the Yosemite Hardman Offwidth Training Circuit have been decommissioned (supertopo, widefetish, etc). Found one version on google groups with an embedded version of Dr. OW's original, with Russ Walling's additions further down. Chingando is on there and is a good example of 10a offwidth IMHO. It has some hard sections, but the face holds on the left side of the crack make it a bit more manageable.

groups.google.com/g/rec.cli… Jun 1, 2021

[Hide Comment] It's definitely more than 8' where a #6 doesn't fit, more like 25'. But if you're not too big then your hips fully fit in and it's super secure climbing until just at the end where a #6 fits again and you're forced to exit the squeeze. There is a tiny crack on the right that could probably take a microcam instead of a 2nd #6. Nov 7, 2021

[Hide Comment] There’s a nut placement that protects the wide part. Actually, you can just slot a carabiner behind the crack and use it as a chock. Works better than a nut. Never used anything more than 1 #4, 5 and 6. Nov 8, 2021

[Hide Comment] I was really happy to have a 7 on this one. Pushed it for about 25-30ft above a tipped 6. Don't advise climbing this in the sun. Apr 4, 2022

[Hide Comment] The gear beta in the description is pretty good. Given the length of the widest section and the advances in gear since the gear beta was provided in 2007, I would change the #3 Big Bro to a #7 C4. I was happy to have something I could bump along until my hips were comfortably in the crack, and you can keep pushing a #7 until it's almost over-cammed where the chains are within striking distance! If anything besides your #7 is left on your harness by the time the #6 goes in, I would leave it all behind so it doesn't get in the way. Oct 22, 2023