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Magical Mystery Tour
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
Routes in Reed's Pinnacle
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11c Toprope Arete TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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589 (Per Clint Cummins Guide Book) Unknown (Per Sloan Guide Book) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Arch OW at Bongs Away Left T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Beyond Lunacy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Beyond the Fringe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bong's Away Center T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bongs Away, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Children of Light S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Chingando T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Deer Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dr. Fun Time T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dream Easy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ejesta T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Flatus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Footprints S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Independence Pinnacle, Center T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Iota, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Lunatic Fringe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Magical Mystery Tour T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ol' 5.10 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Olga's Trick T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Open Your Eyes T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Phantom T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Porter's Pout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Reed's Erect T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Reed's Pinnacle Left T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Remnant, Center, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Remnant-Left Side, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Remnant-Right Side, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rocket In My Pocket T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rorp, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Scrunchy-Mungy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Spring Fever T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Steppin' Out T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Stone Fist T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Stone Groove T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stone Groove (full) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unnamed 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 1000 ft (303 m) |
| FA: | Charlie Porter, Dave Altman (1975) |
| Page Views: | 515 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on May 20, 2021 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
P1. Start by climbing Reeds Pinnacle to the big ledge.
P2. Climb Bongs Away Left, Center, or Right to the top of the short pillar. From here, the route begins.
P3. Traverse right through easy blocky terrain to a decent ledge at the base of a crack. Belay here.
P4. Climb the short crack as high as you can and place a piece to protect the traverse. Down climb a bit until you can safely traverse right into a nice corner system. Climb as high as you can before placing a piece being mindful of your second and paying close attention to limiting the potential of a nasty pendulum as they negotiate the crux. The second will clean your high piece and down climb. Your first piece after the traverse should be placed high enough to protect their traverse.
P5. Climb a short fist crack to a ramp and belay on a ledge near a tree. This is the pitch 5 anchor to Beyond Lunacy.
P6. One more pitch of knobby face brings you to the anchors above The Rorp, or continue up Beyond Lunacy. Most parties descend from pitch 5 as the rappel anchors for Beyond Lunacy make for an easy retreat. And you can TR Lunatic Fringe when you get down, so there’s that!
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