Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Don Reid and Rick Cashner '83
Page Views: 121 total · 10/month
Shared By: DylanJK on Jan 16, 2018
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

A slightly overhanging finger and hand crack diagonally splitting an arete. Sounds awesome, right?

The climbing and protection is really good but the quality of the rock outside the crack is not often traveled. Take caution around the wedged block at the bottom and the jug/horn before the arete. The jug/horn is solid but don't grab to the right!

Another note is the anchor situation. 3 old 1/4 inch bolts. I replaced the webbing (which easily ripped apart with a slight tug), added some biners and even left a #2 camalot as a backup. I had to dig deep to leave my friend behind. Free cam to whoever upgrades the anchor!

Location

This isn't really part of Reed's Pinnacle. The approach is completely different.
From the 120/140 junction drive west on the 120. Park in the first paved pullout on the right.

Follow the 120 westward for 0.4 miles. On the way you'll see the cliff to your right (distinct arete with a crack diagonally splitting it). At a logical point leave the road, following the dirt uphill. Once in the trees, stay left to gain a talus field. follow that up then trend rightwards to the base. You'll have to turn the corner before seeing the climb. ~20 minutes

Protection

0.6"-2.5"
Helmet for belayer

Photos

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