Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Eric Gabel and Linda Jarit , 2011
Page Views: 855 total · 12/month
Shared By: Alexey Zelditch on Mar 19, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This is overhanging hand crack which run inside of the flare.
You do cool and powerful moves all the way to the anchors.
Stelar. I think it going to be a classic route and 10 years from today it would be several parties waiting in the base.
After new Yosemite book will include this route- it going to be fourth white strike at Reed's visible from parking lot : Reed's Direct, Lunatic fringe, Stone Grove and Dr. Fun Time.
Until it become classic - expect some small granite flakes coming out from your feet and hands - while you climb

Location

Start just 30 left from Porter's Pout. You can see new rap bolts at the top of the crack.

Protection

Single from 0.5 to #5.
double hands size especially #1, #2 Camelots

Photos

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Alexey Zelditch
San Jose
  5.10d
Alexey Zelditch   San Jose
  5.10d
Eric says that It has a second pitch too,(I did not climb it and even did not notice it) that goes at 5.10c. At the anchors on top of the first pitch, you do some wild moves left, around the arete (5.10c) to a few knobs on the face, and then up to cracks that lead to the anchors of "Ejesta". Mar 19, 2013
Hey Alexey, nice job on that pitch! Did you onsight? I don't think that pitch will ever be a white streak.... I don't think it will be around long enough. But yes, there is good hard climbing in all that choss. Mar 26, 2013
Alexey Zelditch
San Jose
  5.10d
Alexey Zelditch   San Jose
  5.10d
My friends think that I overrated quality of the route.
A lot of loose rock, danger for belayer if he/she directly below the line, bad pro in the bottom part, and moving flakes on the upper parts. True, but the climbing moves are good! Apr 22, 2014