Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Dan Nguyen, Clint Cummins, 11/1987
Page Views: 947 total · 13/month
Shared By: Sirius on Mar 12, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

7 Opinions

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details


This is an interesting pitch that sits atop its much more famous cousin, Lunatic Fringe.

From the LF belay stance, step left to a seam that opens into a thin crack. Delicate moves lead past small (but solid) pro until you make your way past the crux sequence. The first ~40 ft of climbing off the belay felt sustained.

Half way up the pitch the nature of the climbing changes and the difficulty tapers off. Cruise up to the ledge above, where you can either rap back to the LF anchor or continue up the excellent Beyond Lunacy.


The obvious continuation above Lunatic Fringe.


Standard rack, emphasis on small to very small pro for crux first half.


- No Photos -
Oakland, CA
Sirius   Oakland, CA
It seems as if this pitch may not get repeated often, and as a result there is some lichen and some flexing features to be navigated. Be particularly wary of the thank-god jug about 20 ft off of the belay (the first big feature you get after a bunch of balancey, techy moves on small pro), which flexed a bunch when I grabbed it.

I don't think the pitch deserves an R or even a PG, but protecting the first half is more involved than your standard Yosemite crack climb.

Here's a link to one of the FA'ists description:

stanford.edu/~clint/rep/87n… Mar 12, 2013
Mark Straub
Berkeley, CA
Mark Straub   Berkeley, CA
This pitch is sweet. Just as good as Lunatic Fringe IMO. It climbs a lot cleaner than it looks. The route protects well, as long as you have a few small cams and don't mind placing with a cam at your feet. Oct 17, 2017