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Routes in 21 - Reed's Pinnacle Area

11c Toprope Arete TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Arch OW at Bongs Away Left T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Beyond Lunacy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beyond the Fringe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bong's Away Center T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bongs Away, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Children of Light S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chingando T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Deer Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dr. Fun Time T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dream Easy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ejesta T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flatus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Independence Pinnacle, Center T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Iota, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lunatic Fringe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ol' 5.10 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Olga's Trick T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Phantom T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Porter's Pout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reed's Pinnacle Left T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Remnant, Center, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Remnant-Left Side, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Remnant-Right Side, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rocket In My Pocket T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scrunchy-Mungy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spring Fever T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Steppin' Out T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stone Fist T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stone Groove T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Dan Nguyen, Clint Cummins, 11/1987
Page Views: 830 total · 13/month
Shared By: Sirius on Mar 12, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15 Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This is an interesting pitch that sits atop its much more famous cousin, Lunatic Fringe.

From the LF belay stance, step left to a seam that opens into a thin crack. Delicate moves lead past small (but solid) pro until you make your way past the crux sequence. The first ~40 ft of climbing off the belay felt sustained.

Half way up the pitch the nature of the climbing changes and the difficulty tapers off. Cruise up to the ledge above, where you can either rap back to the LF anchor or continue up the excellent Beyond Lunacy.

Location [Suggest Change]

The obvious continuation above Lunatic Fringe.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Standard rack, emphasis on small to very small pro for crux first half.

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Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
It seems as if this pitch may not get repeated often, and as a result there is some lichen and some flexing features to be navigated. Be particularly wary of the thank-god jug about 20 ft off of the belay (the first big feature you get after a bunch of balancey, techy moves on small pro), which flexed a bunch when I grabbed it.

I don't think the pitch deserves an R or even a PG, but protecting the first half is more involved than your standard Yosemite crack climb.

Here's a link to one of the FA'ists description:

stanford.edu/~clint/rep/87n… Mar 12, 2013
Mark Straub
Berkeley, CA
 
Mark Straub   Berkeley, CA
 
This pitch is sweet. Just as good as Lunatic Fringe IMO. It climbs a lot cleaner than it looks. The route protects well, as long as you have a few small cams and don't mind placing with a cam at your feet. Oct 17, 2017

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