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Routes in 21 - Reed's Pinnacle Area

11c Toprope Arete TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Arch OW at Bongs Away Left T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Beyond Lunacy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beyond the Fringe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bong's Away Center T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bongs Away, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Children of Light S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chingando T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Deer Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dr. Fun Time T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dream Easy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ejesta T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flatus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Independence Pinnacle, Center T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Iota, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lunatic Fringe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ol' 5.10 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Olga's Trick T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Phantom T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Porter's Pout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reed's Pinnacle Left T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Remnant, Center, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Remnant-Left Side, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Remnant-Right Side, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rocket In My Pocket T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scrunchy-Mungy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steppin' Out T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stone Fist T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stone Groove T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Bridwell , Klemens 1971
Page Views: 2,796 total, 30/month
Shared By: Alexey on Apr 26, 2010
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

The first two pitches you probably forget next day , but you have to climb them to approach business pitch
P1. Start from right side of the tree, (20 feet left from start of Ejesta) follow thin crack than face moves to wide crack up to the tree with rappel slings. 130 feet. 5.7-5.8 depending of what you are doing
P2. Traverse left to the corner and climb the corner crack to horn/small pinnacle with the slings . This is top of p2 of Independence Center which share same path with Steppin' Out up to this point. Continue up the corner to the big Bay tree wedged in the crack. Last 30 feet of the corner has a loose rotten rock and it better to avoid it by climbing thin hands crack right of the corner. Surmount the overhanging tree with heel hook and belay there. You can place there medium gear #1, #2 cams and safe big gear for last pitch. 100 feet of 5.8-5.9 depending of what you are doing
P3. You Stepping out from the tree to overhanging right leaning impressive 90 feet OW. Except of first 10 feet of 4" fist crack - it is 5-6" and your knee is In all the way with some exceptions. There are few short sections where your knee do not fit well and this is a cruxes. For my knee size I counted this tree times. There is at least 3 good rests where you can stay forever shaking hands and legs. You can protect the climb very well.
Walking #5/6 cam is possible all the way, but it did not worked for me. Since crack overhanging and both feet was most of the time in the crack - rope was constantly stack between feet and edge of the rock and it was big pain and tremendous efforts to move Cam above your head, so I give up and just climbed it normal way.

Location

Route share same start as Independence center, 20 feet left from start of Ejesta. You can not see the 3-d crux pitch from the base of the route, nor from the Reed's parking, but from start of Ejesta you can see this impressive leaning overhanging line in huge right facing corner.
Crux Pitch in the shade after 2 pm

Protection

You need to protect your left knee and both ankles, otherwise you would Not be able to wear short skirt next day.
Before you climb last pitch take off everything from your left side, since you going to be left side in and crack is slightly off-set
Gear in order of appearance:
#4Cam; GreenAlien ; Piton backed up with YellowAlien; #6Friend; #5 Friend; Chock Shown with slings; #5 Cam&old bolt; #6Friend;#5 Cam.
You can add single set from Green Alien to #3Cam.
There is slings around the block and Rap rings at the top of P3.
We did 3rapells with 70m rope. ( Attention!! my rope can be little bit longer than 70m)
1. From top of last pitch with 70M rope STRETCHED!!! directly down to the tree (30 feet below and right of Steppin' Out last belay).
2. From there 100' rap to top of p1 slings.
3. From There 70 M rope STRETCHED!!! rappel to the ground.

Other options - do 4 rappel with 60m rope following different path, or double rope rap

Photos

Evan Riley
San Francisco, CA
 
Evan Riley   San Francisco, CA
 
Best to link the first 2 pitches with a 70m and some double length runners. Look out for the 9+ tree thrash (crux of approach pitch). On the money pitch I used 1 #4, 1#5, 1#6 and 2 draws (old piton and and tiny rusty bolt) and topped out with a #5 and a #6. Woops. Jan 13, 2015
I did this two weeks ago and the chockstone halfway through the climb is a bit loose. I barely touched it and it moved. So I climbed around it and ignored those slings hanging from it. Just FYI. Apr 20, 2014
Alexey
San Jose
 
Alexey   San Jose
 
Until memory fresh from yesterday:
Nice to have 3#4 , 3#5 and 2#6 to avoid pushing camalots. Save #6 for upper part .
This time the angry ants was above belay tree. we move out belay below the trunk.
The tree is almost dead. Apr 14, 2014
Christina Freschl
Berkeley, California
 
Christina Freschl   Berkeley, California
 
Classic third pitch! Steep and sustained. Double fist stacking, calf locking, back stepping, #6 walking fun! Jan 22, 2013
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
I linked pitches 2 & 3, and the rope drag/weight, though not bad, did make pushing a cam virtually impossible. In retrospect, I should have clipped the cam with a very long runner so that I would not be pushing up the weight of the rope as I pushed the cam ahead of me.

The business is mostly wide #5 Camalots or tight #6's. This was not a good size for me, too wide for a knee jam. I haven't climbed a lot of 5.10+ OW's, but I found it to be loads harder than Cream 11a. Oct 15, 2012
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
In the Sierra Club's mountaineering journal, Ascent, 1973, Jim Bridwell proposed letter grades for 5.10. His examples for 5.10d offwidth include; Twilight Zone, Steppin' Out, Fall Out, and Mental Block (P2 & p3) Jan 31, 2011
Alexey
San Jose
 
Alexey   San Jose
 
New Routes development on Reed's:
From the top of p1 of SteppingOut/Independence Center , right where left traverse started I did see two new shiny bolts going face directly up. Than I did see two rappel bolts in the left facing corner right and above of top's p3 of Stepping out. The hands/fingers crack in this corner looks nice.
I remember Eric Gabel once told me something about this routes long time ago, but since I did not see them by the time I can not recall what he said.

Do you guys who climbed it or put those routes want to share beta and put some info on this site? Apr 26, 2010