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Routes in 21 - Reed's Pinnacle Area

11c Toprope Arete TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Arch OW at Bongs Away Left T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Beyond Lunacy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beyond the Fringe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bong's Away Center T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bongs Away, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Children of Light S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chingando T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Deer Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dr. Fun Time T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dream Easy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ejesta T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flatus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Independence Pinnacle, Center T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Iota, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lunatic Fringe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ol' 5.10 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Olga's Trick T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Phantom T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Porter's Pout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reed's Pinnacle Left T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Remnant, Center, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Remnant-Left Side, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Remnant-Right Side, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rocket In My Pocket T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scrunchy-Mungy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steppin' Out T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stone Fist T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stone Groove T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jim Bridwell, 1970
Page Views: 2,569 total, 21/month
Shared By: Sirius on Dec 18, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This pitch is a fun and somewhat physical option for those who reach the top of Reed's Direct p2 and still want more - but not quite as much as Reed's 3rd pitch offers.

Fire up steep double cracks at the back of a shallow 'chimney' to pull onto a sloping ledge. These cracks will alternately take knees, fists, armbars, and handstacks - the shallow chimney provides infinite no hands rests with the right body language. Before you turn right onto the sloping ledge, gaze at the continuation of the left crack: a hard looking and overhung offwidth.

From the sloping ledge follow the nice crack as it curves up to a roof, which is easily pulled on the featured granite that abounds here.

A great pitch if you're looking for relatively tame, well protected, and non-sustained semi-wide climbing.

Location

From the long ledge at the top of Reed's Direct second pitch, walk right until the end of the ledge. Clip in to the anchor/rap station here and climb the twin wide-ish cracks that are in front of your nose.

Protection

Up to the 3.5 or 4"

Photos

Nathan Scherneck
Portland, OR
Nathan Scherneck   Portland, OR
Anyone know what the "hard looking and overhung offwidth" that arches out left is called and rated? Looks exciting. Jun 7, 2012
Osprey Overhang   ...
 
This pitch is well protected and a good entry in to the wide world of OW. Mar 24, 2012
Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.8
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.8
After climbing, make sure to TR Bong's Away, Center (5.10a). It is a great OW - clean, sustained, and very exposed. It starts thin and widens to hand stacks. It has some nice calf to knee jams too. Either downclimb the top of the 2nd pitch of the Regular Route to follow the line (a little dirty on the lower part), or swing over from the ledge to the start (it is much cleaner from here on up). Feb 7, 2011