Type: Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Wally Reed, Herb Swedlund, 1957
Page Views: 6,790 total · 54/month
Shared By: Linnea Williams on Nov 23, 2008
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

94 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details


This is a meandering route that features primarily 5.8 hands, stemming, etc. The highlight of the route is definitely the awesomely bizarre and incredibly fun squeeze tunnel at the third pitch. It will make you feel what it's like to be a nut jammed in a perfect constriction.

On the final pitch, once you're on the sloping ledge, don't continue up left, but traverse right onto easier ground.

You could do the last two pitches (tunnel and 5.9 hands) after topping out on Reed's Direct, if you were so inclined.


Pro to 3.5. A No. 4 Cam will make you happier at the start of the final pitch.

Don't miss the piton in the middle of the tunnel. It's up fairly high.


Will M.
Will M.   Oakland
The 5.9 variation on P4 is great fun. The OW at the top can be protected with a #2 and #4. I found taking your helmet off to be very useful in the squeeze, just don't fall. Sep 12, 2011
Osprey Overhang   ...
FA: Wally Reed, Herb Swedlund, 1957 Jan 7, 2012
I had to climb up and over and down at the piton to fit through the squeeze (6'1" but my chest stuck). My smaller partner was able to go directly through below the piton. Oct 30, 2012
Robert Shortt
San Francisco, CA
Robert Shortt   San Francisco, CA
I'm 5'7" and broad chested. I got stuck in the squeeze for a minute and had a little moment of panic. Having a nice partner who could guide me through the path of least resistance was key. Definitely type 2 fun on that pitch. The rest was fantastic! Nov 17, 2014
I don't recommend the 5.9 OW at the end of pitch 4 for budding 5.9 leaders, or those not comfortable with OW! I slid out of it top first and landed with my back on the sloping ledge -- ouch! Luckily I had a piece just below the OW section that slowed me down, and was wearing a helmet (would very likely have had a concussion otherwise). The alternative face finish around to the right is super easy. Apr 19, 2016