Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Barry Bates & Mark Klemens
Page Views: 1,465 total · 14/month
Shared By: Wylie on Apr 21, 2013
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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A nice, clean, less than vertical splitter OW that gradually goes from 3" - 6". A great intro to Valley wide climbing and knee jamming. Use long slings, back clean, or don't place anything on the traverse. Crux is pure 5" crack, by the time it opens to 6" knobs appear and the business is over. I see it listed usually as 5.10a, but compared to other OW's I'd say it's 5.9.


Move right on the big ledge at the top of pitch 2 of "Reed's Direct" to the 2 bolt anchor below "Bong's Away Left". Traverse easy terrain right and down from the anchor then up the obvious OW. 2 bolt anchor at the top. Rappel back down to the big ledge.


Single set from BD C4 #3 - #6 will get it done. Doubles of 4 and 5 if you like lots-o gear or don't want to walk your cams. I think the traverse takes between a BD .5 and #2? It's been awhile.


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