Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Barry Bates & Mark Klemens
Page Views: 774 total · 11/month
Shared By: Wylie on Apr 21, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

A nice, clean, less than vertical splitter OW that gradually goes from 3" - 6". A great intro to Valley wide climbing and knee jamming. Use long slings, back clean, or don't place anything on the traverse. Crux is pure 5" crack, by the time it opens to 6" knobs appear and the business is over. I see it listed usually as 5.10a, but compared to other OW's I'd say it's 5.9.

Location

Move right on the big ledge at the top of pitch 2 of "Reed's Direct" to the 2 bolt anchor below "Bong's Away Left". Traverse easy terrain right and down from the anchor then up the obvious OW. 2 bolt anchor at the top. Rappel back down to the big ledge.

Protection

Single set from BD C4 #3 - #6 will get it done. Doubles of 4 and 5 if you like lots-o gear or don't want to walk your cams. I think the traverse takes between a BD .5 and #2? It's been awhile.

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