Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches
FA: Pete Spoecker & Steve Herrero, 1965
Page Views: 8,881 total · 51/month
Shared By: Mike Morley on Jul 10, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and falcon closures. Details

Description

The Surprise provides 2 excellent pitches of climbing. Here it is broken into 5 pitches but can be done in 3 pitches.

P1: Climb a 5.6 corner up to tree anchor.

P2: Traverse 5.5 right and down to a flake/stem below the splitter. Can link P1 and P2 but committing for the follower.

P3: Climb 5.8 face/stem and hand crack to a single bolt. Can link P2 and P3 since this is a better spot to belay and less committing for the follower on the traverse. 

P4: Excellent 5.10a tight hands/fingers splitter to a bouldery face move to a ledge and tree anchor. Can link P3 and P4. 

P5: Left of the tree, climb 5.7 stem to 4th class.

You can also link pitches 4 and 5. After the crux, move up and left to a fun corner after some easy climbing. Keeps from away from the tree and having to crouch and belay in the branches.

Location

The Surprise is located to the right of both Munginella and Commitment in the middle of the cliff.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos