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Routes in Nightmare Rock

And Metal for All S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Big Daddy Overhang T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Big daddy's Ramp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Claim Jumper T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dirty Sanchez, The T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Endodontic Treatment, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Grand Daddy Overhang T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Great Grandaddy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hypertension T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
It's a Potpourri! T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Morpheus S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Perspective T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Presto S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sentry Box T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short Sentry T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Who's Your Daddy? T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Nicol, Weinstein 1975
Page Views: 3,750 total · 28/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Aug 12, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

A beguiling, I-think-I-can-do-that offwidth that seems to prove most people wrong.

Start w/ 5.9 hands to fist. Then a one move transitional pod, and finally about 12' of overhanging, leaning perfect 4.5 Camalot. Ends with a couple of easy moves and chains. If you have fat knees, this climb could be pretty tough, though at least they won't be bruised the next day.

Location

The obvious wide crack on the southernmost, lowest section of Nightmare Rock. This is the first part of NM one encounters on the trail from the road.

Protection

Camalots: 1-#2, 2-#3, 1 or 2 #4, 1 #4.5. A #5 C4 would probably work instead of the 4.5. A #6 will not fit throughout most, if not all, of the crux.

Photos

A very clean, aesthetic line that is rarely crowded. Also a great exercise in stacking and a very logical progression from split beaver. Like its little brother, most of the difficulties lie in the last third, but they are more sustained, on steeper rock, and with fewer features to offer solace.

Starts with 30 feet of splitter crack that slowly opens from perfect to cupped to fist. A few good features in the crack grant access to a body-sized pod and a rest. From here you are confronted with a very strenuous transition to the upper crack, which for me was just too small for a knee. A desperate calf-lock allows for progress to the final 15 feet of sustained hand-fist stacks and tight knees. Wear jeans!

In new camalot sizes you can sew it up on 1-#2, 2#3, 2#4, and 2#5. The top will not take a 6. Apr 22, 2015
But you can put a #6 in the rest pod... which is highly recommended so you don't get caught up fiddling with gear too much in the #5 section. May 10, 2016
Scott Brown
Bellingham
 
Scott Brown   Bellingham
 
A #6 works in the Pod, but seemed to get in the way for me. a #5, a bit deeper works well too and isn't as in the way as much. Jul 10, 2017
Scott E  
This thing is savage if you can’t get your knees in it Jul 26, 2018

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