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Routes in Nightmare Rock

And Metal for All S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Big Daddy Overhang T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Big daddy's Ramp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Claim Jumper T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dirty Sanchez, The T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Endodontic Treatment, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Grand Daddy Overhang T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Great Grandaddy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hypertension T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
It's a Potpourri! T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Morpheus S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Perspective T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Presto S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sentry Box T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short Sentry T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Who's Your Daddy? T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: FA- Cousins & McDonald 1964 FFA-Weinstein1975
Page Views: 3,261 total, 27/month
Shared By: David Trippett on Nov 28, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


65 Opinions

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Description

Perspective is yet another Nightmare classic.

Start in a pumpy overhanging corner and climb through a physical, cruxy bulge above. Continue up to an adequate rest a few meters below the technical crux which is just below a small triangular roof in a little flaring corner. Sustained and aesthetic.

It's possible to top-rope Claim Jumper from the shared anchors with Perspective. You can also reach the anchors of Sentry Box with an exposed traverse out left on a ledge system.

Location

Nightmare rock is at Murrin park

Protection

Double cams from fingers to hands....one #3 camalot is useful. Stoppers

Photos

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Mark van Eijk
  5.11-
Mark van Eijk  
  5.11-
Wicked good, non-stop type 1 fun. Probably not a single real 5.11 move but quite sustained and steep so the grade seems justified. Gear is great, bring doubles of everything. I found the rock quality to be superb throughout. Aug 21, 2015
slim

  5.11-
slim    
  5.11-
an excellent pitch, but i wouldn't put it in the squamish top 100 due to several sections with not-so-great rock. definitely a memorable pitch. Aug 5, 2013
Matt Hoffmann
Squamish
  5.11-
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
  5.11-
Wow! Got the onsight of this one yesterday with a lot of effort. Amazing pitch that throws everything from fingers to fists and jugs to slopers at you. Perfect rests when you need them.

Brilliant pitch! Sep 10, 2012
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.11
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.11
Wow. Just do it. Gear is bomber. Doubles to #2 and one #3 would be fine. Might want to throw in an extra purple camalot to sew it up. Aug 8, 2010
Monica Jones
Bishop, CA
 
Monica Jones   Bishop, CA
 
I loved this climb. It's intimidating when you look at it, but it's all there. Super fun. Jul 28, 2010
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11-
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11-
Amazing route, varied climbing and a full value pump. Those used to areas with tougher grades might call this .10+ ish, but it doesn't really matter as its one of the best pitches in the area... Jul 19, 2010
The best single pitch .11a in Squamish. Jun 28, 2010
Peter Spindloe
North Vancouver, BC
 
Peter Spindloe   North Vancouver, BC
 
Long, varied and stout! This one isn't likely on anyone's downgrade list. Highly recommended. Aug 4, 2009