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Routes in Nightmare Rock

And Metal for All S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Big Daddy Overhang T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Big daddy's Ramp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Claim Jumper T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dirty Sanchez, The T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Endodontic Treatment, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Grand Daddy Overhang T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Great Grandaddy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hypertension T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
It's a Potpourri! T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Morpheus S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Perspective T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Presto S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sentry Box T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short Sentry T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Who's Your Daddy? T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jim Baldwin, Jim Sinclair, July 1962. FFA: Peter Croft, Tami Knight, 1981
Page Views: 1,303 total, 12/month
Shared By: camhead on Aug 28, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description

Same start as Grand Daddy Overhang on the 5.9 corner, but go straight out the roof, with a bolt at the lip (crux). More fingercrack above.

Location

huge roof, and out right.

Protection

bolts and small gear.

Photos

- No Photos -
A set of offset cams would be handy if you've got 'em. Nuts are good too Apr 22, 2016
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
FA: Jim Baldwin, Jim Sinclair, July 1962. FFA: Peter Croft, Tami Knight, 1981 Feb 12, 2015
Scott W
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12-
Scott W   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12-
LoL, I wish, I fell on 5.11 just last weekend!

Dave is projecting himself here...! Jul 8, 2011
David Trippett
Squamish, BC
  5.12
David Trippett   Squamish, BC
  5.12
Don't listen to Scott, he hikes 5.13 and then takes all the women home with him. A true stone cold crusher. ; ) Jul 8, 2011
Scott W
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12-
Scott W   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12-
Hard for me to accurately grade this guy, onsighted it and Sentry box same day, both felt easy. Came back a year later, took a nice 40 footer off the top of Sentry Box and then hiked this thing, felt 11c/d. I think if you have power it'll feel easier than most 12bs, it has perfect locks even for my fat fingers, just a little steep.

Crux is very short, great rest right before it and decent rest right after it, maybe 5 moves long, not very sustained. Jun 15, 2011
David Trippett
Squamish, BC
  5.12
David Trippett   Squamish, BC
  5.12
To me, Big Daddy feels like a real step up from the 12a's on the wall...gray or yellow alien (or similar sized piece) just around the roof in the blind lock and much finger sized gear after in the crack above. May 12, 2009