Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Jim Baldwin, Ed Cooper, Oct. 1960. FFA: Eric Weinstein, 1976. Direct: Peter Croft, Tami Knight, 1982
Page Views: 6,308 total · 47/month
Shared By: David Trippett on Nov 26, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


46 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

The classic hard finger crack at Murrin.

Ascend a steep 10a crack on the face above some blocks and past an intermediate anchor. Traverse to a stance below a right leaning splitter finger crack on the headwall. A short, but thin and technical crux(12a) lies above. Fight on to the chains. Watch for the rope getting stuck in the crack to the left of the mid-height ledge.

Do "Sentry Box Direct" for, in my opinion, a better, more sustained version, but beware of the difficult gear placements. There is serious ground fall potential in the first 5m of this variation.

Location

Nightmare rock is at Murrin Park

Protection

singles to #2 Camalot,doubles of yellow and green aliens, stoppers.

Photos

I believe that this is the route shown on the cover of the ?Squamish Select? guidebook. It looks spectacular, but I think I need to lead Crime of the Century cleanly first. Nov 27, 2007
camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
5.12a
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
5.12a
Great route. For the crux, you either need to have small fingers or be tall. I only toproped the direct start, but it is very cool. Pro on it is mostly incipient blue and yellow TCU's, with one fixed piton for the crux. Aug 28, 2008
Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
Lisa Montgomery   Golden, CO
I like a black alien at the crux. Jul 29, 2009
slim

  5.12a
slim    
  5.12a
outstanding route. the initial warmup section alone is great fun, but the climbing above is the cat's pajamas! great rock, perfect gear, you really feel like you are climbing something when you ascend this line. if you aren't smiling when you hit the chains then you probably need a labotomy!

one key piece of beta (given above) - make sure you do something to keep the rope out of the crack at the lip of the chimney. you will probably realize this pretty quickly though. Aug 5, 2013
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
FA: Jim Baldwin, Ed Cooper, Oct. 1960. FFA: Eric Weinstein, 1976. Direct: Peter Croft, Tami Knight, 1982 Feb 12, 2015
Michael T Young
Seattle, WA
Michael T Young   Seattle, WA
I climbed this to the first chains. Super fun, cruiser hand cracks. It felt pretty soft for 10a. Jul 22, 2016
Felt 10a to the roof, 10 to the tips section, 12d fingernail locks, then 11- to the chains. Jul 31, 2017