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> N America
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> British Columbia
> Squamish
> Murrin Park
> Nightmare Rock
Insomnia
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 4 from 4
votes
Routes in Nightmare Rock
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And Metal for All S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Big Barn Door, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Big Daddy Overhang T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Big daddy's Ramp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Claim Jumper T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dirty Sanchez, The T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Endodontic Treatment, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Final Cut T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Grand Daddy Overhang T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Great Grandaddy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Hypertension T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Insomnia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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It's a Potpourri! T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Morpheus S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Paternity Test S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Perspective T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Presto S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Sentry Box T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sentry Box Direct T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Short Sentry T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Uncomfortably Numb T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Who's Your Daddy? T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 110 ft (33 m) |
| GPS: | 49.6489, -123.2021 |
| FA: | Kris Wild, June 2019 |
| Page Views: | 1,504 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | KrisW on Jun 16, 2019 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
A long, technical line to the top of the Dream Wall section of Nightmare Rock. It links varied sections of climbing through 6 small roofs, ending in a 5 foot wide slot at the top. The two cruxes at the last two roofs have fixed quick draws, as the clips can be difficult. This route will not succumb to brute force. A technician's delicate problem solving skills are required!
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